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Partridges, Roast

Let the partridges hang as long as possible, or the flesh will be hard and flavourless. In cool weather they should be kept fully a fortnight before they are put down to the fire. They may be trussed either with or without the head, though the latter mode is at present more generally preferred. Pluck, singe, and draw the birds, and wipe them carefully, inside and out; cut off the heads, and leave enough skin on the neck to skewer them securely. Draw the legs close to the breast, pass the trussing-needle and string through the pinions and the middle joints of the thighs, and tie and skewer the legs. If the heads are left on, they should be brought round, and turned under the wing, with the bill laid on the breast. To give the birds a plump appearance, pass the needle through the back, below the thighs, then again through the body and legs, and tie the strings firmly. Put the birds down before a clear fire, baste liberally with butter (a quarter of a pound will be required for a brace), and a few minutes before they are taken up flour them well, so that they may brown nicely. The birds may be dished upon fried bread-crumbs, or upon a slice of buttered toast which has been soaked in the gravy in the pan under them, or they may be put on a hot dish, and garnished with water-cress. Brown gravy and bread-sauce should be sent to table with them; two or three thin slices of fat bacon, tied round the birds before they are put down to the fire, will greatly improve their flavour; when obtainable, a large vine-leaf may be laid on the breasts under the bacon. Time to roast a brace of partridges, thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, 3s. per brace; but the price varies considerably. Sufficient for four or five persons.