Cassell's New Dictionary of Cookery

From Aberdeen Crullas to Zwiebach — the vast Cassell's dictionary with a recipe for everything, each priced to the penny ('Probable cost, 2s.'), plus the whole science of the 1912 kitchen.

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PORK BLACK PUDDING (another way)

Prepare the skins. (See the preceding recipe.) Put a little salt into the warm blood, and stir until it is cold. Boil a quart of half grits until tender in as much milk as will cover them all the time. Drain them, and mix with them half a pound of bread-crumbs which have been soaked in about half a pint of hot milk until all of it was absorbed, a pint of cream, and as much blood as will make the pudding a dark colour. Add a pound of finely-shredded suet and a dessert-spoonful each of chopped sage, thyme, marjoram, pennyroyal, and onion, with a table-spoonful of parsley, and a seasoning made of two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, six cloves, and a quarter of an ounce each of pounded nutmeg, ginger, and allspice. Mix all thoroughly with eight well-beaten eggs. Cut two pounds of the inward fat of the pig into pieces the size of a large bean. Half fill the skins, put in the fat at regular intervals, and tie the pudding in equal lengths. Put these into hot water, boil five minutes, then prick and boil them again half an hour. Serve as before directed. Probable cost, 5s. Sufficient for twelve persons.

PORK BLACK PUDDINGS (another way). (See BLACK PUDDINGS, ETC.)

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a genuine black pudding recipe, but two elements put it outside what can be recommended today: a culinary herb that is now understood to be a serious hepatotoxin, and a quantity of fresh, uncooked pig's blood handled with no temperature control at any stage.

A Little History

Blood puddings are among the oldest surviving European sausages, tied to the autumn or early-winter pig killing when nothing from the carcass could be wasted and the blood had to be used quickly. Cassell's gives several versions; regional practice varied in the filler, with oatmeal and groats commonly associated with the north of England and Scotland and breadcrumbs and cream with richer styles, and here both appear at once, with a pound of suet and two pounds of leaf fat cut to bean size so the finished slices show a pattern of white against the dark. Pennyroyal was a common herb in English pudding and stuffing seasonings -- one of its old names is pudding grass -- and its reputation as a herb for "bringing on the menses" ran alongside its kitchen use. The recipe gives the cost as five shillings, sufficient for twelve persons.

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