Cassell's New Dictionary of Cookery

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Roots, Esculent

These are of two kinds--those used as food, and those which principally answer the purposes of condiment or seasoning. Under the first division may be classed turnips, carrots, parsnips, Jerusalem artichokes, radishes, etc., many of which, it will be seen, are seldom used solely for aliment, but are rather brought to our tables to qualify our animal food. Under the second division may be arranged onions, garlic, horse-radish, etc. We may add a few observations on the qualities of these several roots. The carrot, from the quantity of saccharine matter which it contains, is very nutritive and slightly laxative; but it also possesses a large proportion of fibrous matter, which in some stomachs prevents the digestion of the root, and it passes through the bowels with but little change. To obviate this effect, it ought to be very thoroughly boiled, and it should be eaten when young. The turnip is a very excellent vegetable, and, although it has the character of being flatulent, is less liable to disagree with the stomach than the carrot. It ought, however, to be well boiled, and the watery part separated by pressure. The parsnip is nutritive and digestive, although many persons dislike it on account of its sweet flavour. The Jerusalem artichoke is agreeable, but watery and flatulent. It ought, therefore, never to be eaten without a proper accompaniment of salt and pepper. As to radishes, all the varieties have a pungent and acrid taste, in consequence of a peculiar stimulating matter which resides in the cortical part of the root. They may be said to contain little else than water, woody fibre, and an acrid matter, and cannot, therefore, be very nutritive. They may act as a stimulant and prove useful, but they ought never to be eaten when old, as the quantity of inert matter in such a condition is apt to disagree with the stomach. From the consideration of radishes we pass, by an easy transition, to that of onions, etc., for they appear to form the connecting link between alimentary roots and those principally used as condiments. The onion, however, although classed under this latter division, and though it must be considered as valuable on account of its stimulating matter, certainly contains a considerable proportion of nourishment. This appears evident in the boiled state, by which process their acrimony is exhaled and a sweet mucilage separated. The French are fully aware of the quantity of nourishment this plant affords, hence the soup a l'oignon is considered by them as the best of all restoratives. As a stimulant to the stomach and bowels, the onion in a raw state is certainly of value, and this is much enhanced by its diuretic properties. The leek, garlic, and shallot are of the same species, and possess qualities of the same nature. Horse-radish is a warm and pungent root, and is highly valuable to the dyspeptic as a stimulant; it is, perhaps, the best of all condiments for the prevention of flatulency.

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