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Ruffs and Reeves

These little birds, of which the ruff is the male and the reeve is the female, take their name from the long feathers which stand round the neck of the male bird, in appearance slightly resembling the ruffs worn by ladies. Ruffs are birds of passage, and are caught in traps, and when fattened on meal and milk are esteemed a great delicacy. They should not be drawn, and should be trussed like woodcock. To prepare them, run a small skewer through the thighs and pinions, lay over the bodies of the birds a slice of fat bacon and a vine-leaf, run them on a lark-spit, and put them down before a clear fire. Baste well with butter, and put a slice of toast in the tin under the birds to receive the drippings from the trail. When done enough, dish them on the same toast with a little brown gravy under them, and more in a tureen. Garnish the dish with water-cress, and send bread sauce to table. Time to roast the birds, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, uncertain, ruffs being seldom offered for sale.