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Smelts

The smelt is a small, delicately-flavoured fish, highly esteemed, which, when perfectly fresh and good, possesses an odour, said by some to resemble that of a violet, by others that of a freshly-cut cucumber. It loses this perfume about twelve hours after it is taken. It may be dressed in various ways, of which frying is the most usual; it should never be quite plainly boiled, though the recipe for boiling smelts for invalids will be found excellent. Smelts are much used to garnish large fish, such as turbot or cod, but they may also be served alone. When fresh, the gills are red and the eyes bright and full; the body, too, is of a silvery hue. They are in season from October to May. They should be handled as little as possible; should not be washed, but wiped with a soft cloth; and in drawing them the gills should be pulled gently out, and the inside with them, as the fish must not be opened. The roe should be left inside. When split and dried smelts are called sparlings.