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Turtle Soup, from Dried Turtle Flesh

Three or four days before the soup is wanted, buy a quarter of a pound of dried turtle flesh. Soak it in lukewarm water three days and three nights. Change the water every twelve hours, and if a slightly unpleasant odour arises from the flesh, rub it lightly over with salt. Whilst the soaking process is going on keep the basin containing the turtle in a warm place, and during the night let it stand in a cool oven. For the last twelve hours let the water in which it is soaked be of a good warmth. When the meat has been soaked till it has lost its gluey appearance, and is swollen and comparatively soft, cut it into neat pieces two inches square, and boil these gently for twelve hours in strong stock prepared as follows. Put a slice of lean, uncooked ham into a gallon saucepan with a pound and a half of gravy beef, a pound and a half of knuckle of veal, two onions, each one with three cloves stuck into it, a head of celery, a small turnip and carrot, as much parsley as will fill a teacup, three tea-spoonfuls of dried marjoram, three tea-spoonfuls of dried basil, one or two mushrooms if they are at hand, half a tea-spoonful of lemon thyme, half a salt-spoonful of pennyroyal, a small tea-spoonful of salt, and a small pinch of cayenne. If any chicken bones or pieces of cold roast meat are at hand, they may be added to the rest. Fill the saucepan with cold water, simmer the soup very gently for twelve hours, and remove the scum as it rises. The soup must on no account be left in the saucepan all night; but if the simmering is not finished at night the soup must be poured out into a basin, set in a cool place, and put on the fire again next day. When the soup has been reduced to two quarts, strain carefully, and remove the fat with scrupulous care. Get a pound and a half of fresh eels, cut them into pieces two inches long, and boil these in the stock. When they are tender, lift them out of the stock, and gain strain it by passing it through a jelly-bag two or three times; if necessary, clear it with white of egg. When it is clear put in the pieces of turtle flesh, and boil them gently till they are as tender as well-cooked calf's head. At the last moment add a claret-glassful of good Madeira or good golden sherry. Pour the soup into the tureen, add a few drops of lemon-juice, and it will be ready for serving. If it is necessary to clarify the soup, whisk the white of an egg with a cupful of cold water. Stir this briskly into the soup when it is just warm, let it boil, and gently lift off the scum as it rises. Draw the saucepan to the side, and let the soup simmer gently for half an hour. Let it stand a quarter of an hour to settle, and strain through a jelly-bag. If the soup has been gently simmered and carefully skimmed, it will most likely need only to be passed two or three times through a jelly-bag. If thick soup is preferred to clear soup, moisten a table-spoonful of brown thickening with a small portion of the soup. When it is quite smooth, pour it into the saucepan, and stir till it boils. When this thickening is used it will be necessary to let the saucepan stand by the side of the fire with the lid on for a short time, that the fat may rise to the surface and be removed. The eels which are stewed in the stock may be served as eel souchet, and will make a good dish. As the pieces of eel are taken out of the soup, throw them into a pan of boiling water for one minute. Lay them in a dish with as much boiling water as will cover them, put with them one or two sprigs of fresh parsley, and send brown bread and butter to table with them. Time, four or five days to prepare the soup. Probable cost, turtle flesh, 10s. per pound. Sufficient for three pints of soup.