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Veal, Fricandeau Of

For this dish--a segment of veal, larded and stewed, with bacon, sliced vegetables, sweet herbs, and seasoning--we are indebted to the age of Leo X. Its inventor was Jean de Careme (John of Lent), who received the nickname in consequence of a celebrated soupe maigre which he made for the Pope, his master. He was the direct ancestor of the famous Careme, who was cook first to George IV., and afterwards to Baron Rothschild. Leo X., luxurious and magnificent in his tastes, was far from narrow-minded in his patronage of merit. He fostered the genius of Raphael, the painter, and encouraged also the genius which could discover a fricandeau. The following recipe will be found excellent. Take about three pounds of the fat, fleshy side of a fillet of veal of the best quality, or a slice about four inches thick. With one stroke of the knife cut it even, trim it into an oblong or oval shape, then lard thickly and evenly with thin strips of fat bacon. Slice two carrots, two turnips, and two onions, and put these into the centre of a stewpan with two or three slices of bacon, the trimmings of the meat, a bunch of sweet herbs, two bay-leaves, and a little salt and white pepper. Put the fricandeau on the vegetables, and pour in about a pint of stock, or as much as will cover the bacon without touching the veal. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents come slowly to the boil, then stew very gently by the side of the fire till the meat is quite tender. Baste frequently with its liquor. A short time before it is to be served take it up and put it into a well-heated oven to crisp the bacon. Strain the gravy, skim the fat from it, boil quickly to glaze, and baste the fricandeau with it till it looks bright and glossy. Serve with the larded surface uppermost, in the centre of a puree of any vegetables that are in season--sorrel, spinach, endive, asparagus, peas, etc. If liked, the gravy may be simply strained, skimmed, and poured over the meat, and then the dish is fricandeau with gravy. Sometimes as a matter of economy the lean part of the best end of a large neck of veal is used instead of the prime part of the leg, and does nearly as well. Truffles, mushrooms, and artichoke bottoms may all be served with this dish. Time to stew the fricandeau, about two hours and a half. Probable cost, veal, 1s. 1d. per pound.