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VENISON, HAUNCH OF (M. Ude's recipe)

"It was customary in France to cut off a small rosette from the leg, to lard, and then pickle it. In England it is customary to put it on a spit, then to make some paste with flour and water only, and case the venison with it, securing it with a few sheets of paper. It cannot be done thoroughly in less than four hours. It is usually served up with red currant jelly, made hot, with a little port wine. The women cooks in England put flour over the roast just before they remove it from the spit, a custom which is utterly absurd. I approve of the practice of flouring roast meat, if it be done early enough to imbibe the gravy, and get nicely browned, when it becomes very tasty. In the other case, the froth of the flour and butter adheres to the palate, and has an abominable taste. I like to remove the paper from the venison a few minutes before it is served, and glaze the venison with very good glaze; some fine salt must be spread over it before the glaze is applied. This method is better and more tasty than the other."