Apple Water

A sickroom infusion rather than a cooked dish: hot water draws flavour, sugars and a little pectin out of raw or roasted apple slices, and the liquid is drunk cool. The one thing that matters is the strain — leave the fruit in longer than a few hours and the drink turns cloudy and starts to ferment.

• QuantitiesA quart is 4 cups (about 950 ml). Two large apples means roughly 1 lb / 450 g of fruit, which is the right proportion; less fruit gives water that tastes only faintly of apple.
• Which applesChoose something tart and aromatic — Bramley, Granny Smith, or another sharp variety. Sweeter dessert apples give a blander, less refreshing result and will need little or no added sugar.
• Leave the skin onSlice unpeeled and core-in; the skin contributes much of the colour and perfume. Rinse the fruit first.
• Roasted applesThe alternative reading of the recipe: use apples baked whole until collapsed, then pour the boiling water over them. The original gives no temperature or time. This gives a deeper, caramelised drink and a cloudier one.
• Steeping and strainingTwo to three hours is the original instruction and it is enough; the recipe says nothing about where the jug stands. Strain through a fine sieve or a double layer of muslin, pressing lightly rather than forcing the pulp through, or the liquid will be muddy.
• Sweetening'Slightly' suggests no more than a teaspoon or two of sugar in the whole quart; this was meant to be barely sweet. Add it while the liquid is still warm so it dissolves.
• Yield and keepingMakes about a quart, three or four glasses. Refrigerate at once and drink within 24 hours; unpasteurised apple liquid with sugar in it sours quickly.