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Boiled Potatoes
When about to boil potatoes, pick them out as nearly as possible of one size, or the large ones will be hard when the small ones are reduced to pulp. If this cannot easily be done, cut them to one size. Wash them well, remove the specks or eyes, and pare them as thinly as possible, to avoid waste. As they are pared, throw them into cold water, and let them remain in it until wanted. Put them into a saucepan with barely enough cold water to cover them, and as soon as the water boils throw in a little more cold water. This will check the heat, and keep the potatoes from breaking before they are done through. Thrust a fork into them occasionally; and as soon as they are soft take them up, pour off the liquor, and let them stand by the side of the fire with the saucepan partially uncovered till the moisture has evaporated and they are quite dry. If they are allowed to remain in the water after they are done enough, they will become soggy. Serve very hot. When potatoes are done before they are wanted, they should be drained and left in the saucepan by the side of the fire, and instead of the lid a folded cloth should be laid over them. This will absorb the moisture and keep them hot and in good condition for some time. In order to make boiled potatoes look floury, boil and drain them as above, and whilst they are drying by the side of the fire shake the saucepan vigorously every minute or two.
A method rather than a formula, and the technique still holds up. The part that matters most is the drying stage after draining.
- The hinge: dry them off heatDraining and then letting the potatoes steam dry in the hot pan is what separates floury from soggy. On a modern stove, return the drained pan to the burner on the lowest setting for one to two minutes with the lid ajar, or set it off the heat on a still-warm burner.
- "By the side of the fire"This means the cooler edge of a coal range, roughly the equivalent of a burner on very low or a warm spot on the stovetop. It is a holding temperature, not cooking heat.
- Start in cold waterBeginning cold and barely covering is correct for peeled potatoes; it lets the outside and centre come up together. Dropping peeled potatoes into boiling water cooks the exterior to mush first.
- The splash of cold waterAdding cold water at the boil knocks the pan back to a bare simmer. A modern cook gets the same result by simply turning the heat down as soon as it boils and holding it at a lazy simmer.
- TimingNo time is given because it depends on size. Whole medium potatoes generally take 20-30 minutes at a simmer; 2-inch chunks, 15-20. The recipe tests with a fork; a knife tip works as well.
- Soaking in cold waterHolding pared potatoes in cold water prevents browning and is still standard. It also rinses off some surface starch, so there is little reason to hold them longer than necessary.
- The cloth over the panA folded clean towel laid over the drained potatoes in place of the lid absorbs steam so they do not turn watery while they wait. Keep the cloth clear of any flame or hot element.
- Variety mattersFloury results depend on a starchy potato -- russet or a mealy white. Waxy red or new potatoes will not go floury however vigorously you shake the pan.
- YieldReckon about 6 oz of potato per person as a side dish, more if it is the main starch of a large meal.