Calf's Foot Consomme

A gelatin-rich invalid broth rather than a clear French consommé — the calf's feet supply body, the veal the flavour. Expect it to set firm when chilled.

• TimingReducing 3 quarts to 3 pints takes roughly 3 to 4 hours at a bare simmer. The feet need that long anyway for the collagen to break down; rushing at a rolling boil clouds the liquid and emulsifies the fat back into it.
• Calf's feetOrder them from a halal or Latin butcher, or ask a full-service meat counter; they are often sold split. Two feet is about 2 to 2 1/2 lb. Pig's trotters set just as firmly if calf is unavailable.
• Blanch firstThe original omits it, but scalding the feet in boiling water for 5 minutes and rinsing off the scum gives a far cleaner broth. Skim persistently during the first half hour regardless.
• MaceBlades of mace are the dried outer covering of the nutmeg seed, sold whole in strips. Three or four blades suit this quantity; 1/4 teaspoon ground mace substitutes, added late, since long boiling dulls ground spice.
• Removing the fatThe original removes the fat before chilling. If you instead let it go cold first, the fat sets in a solid cap that lifts off in one piece, which is more thorough than skimming warm.
• StrainingA colander alone leaves sediment. Line it with damp muslin or a coffee filter if you want the broth clear enough to be called a consommé.
• Yield and keepingAbout 3 pints, six servings as a cup of broth. It will set to a firm jelly in the refrigerator and will keep a few days; reheat gently to liquefy, or serve cold in spoonfuls, as jellied broths were given to invalids.
• SeasoningSalt lightly during cooking and correct at the end. Reduction by half concentrates whatever you add early.