Celery Salad

A three-line salad that depends entirely on the celery being crisp, dry and cut at the last moment. The instructions are terse because there is almost nothing to do.

• "Blanched" does not mean boiledIn this period blanched celery was grown banked with soil or wrapped to keep it pale and mild — the tender inner stalks of a modern head are the equivalent. Do not drop the celery in boiling water; it should be raw and crisp.
• The hinge: drynessAny water clinging to the cut celery will thin the mayonnaise and make the salad weep. Wash and dry the stalks whole, well ahead, then cut them just before dressing.
• Cut small"Very small" is all the book says; a fine dice or thin crosswise slices will let the dressing coat rather than pool. Coarse outer strings can be stripped with a peeler first.
• Two or three minutes before servingThis is the one timing the book insists on. Celery starts shedding liquid as soon as it is cut, so dress it at the last moment rather than in advance.
• The mayonnaiseThe book assumes a made-from-scratch mayonnaise, which is thicker and less sweet than most jarred versions; loosen bottled mayonnaise with a little lemon juice or cream so it will coat. If making your own, use pasteurized eggs, since nothing in this dish is cooked.
• GarnishThe pale green leaves from the heart are what is wanted — the dark outer leaves are bitter. They are edible, not just decoration.
• YieldTwo servings as written. The book gives no quantities; a small head of celery with a couple of tablespoons of mayonnaise is about right, and it scales directly.