Colonial Gingerbread

A plain molasses loaf leavened with soda and sour milk. The original gives no oven setting or time, which is the main gap to fill.

• Oven and timeBake at 350F. In a standard 9x5-inch loaf pan allow 45 to 55 minutes; in an 8-inch square pan, 30 to 35. It is done when the centre springs back and a skewer comes out clean — molasses batters stay dark and moist-looking, so colour tells you nothing.
• Porto Rico molassesA cane molasses sold by grade, and one a cook of the day would have thought of as good quality rather than the harsh bottom end. Dark unsulphured molasses is the nearest modern stand-in. Blackstrap will make the loaf bitter and drag the crumb down.
• Thick sour milkThis means naturally soured raw milk, thick as cream. Cultured buttermilk is the direct substitute; failing that, stir 1 tablespoon lemon juice or vinegar into a cup of whole milk and let it stand ten minutes. The acid is what the soda works against, so sweet milk will not do.
• Soda, not powderThe 1-1/2 teaspoonfuls of soda is on the generous side but within period practice for this much molasses and sour milk, both of which are acidic. Sift it thoroughly with the flour; a pocket of undispersed soda leaves a soapy metallic streak.
• Order of mixingThe original simply directs everything to be put together and beaten. If you prefer a modern sequence, cream the softened butter with the sugar, beat in the eggs, then the molasses, then alternate the dry ingredients with the sour milk. Either way, once the flour is in, overworking gives a tough, tunnelled crumb.
• FlourHousehold flour of the period varied, and much of it was softer than modern all-purpose. If the batter seems stiff rather than pourable, hold back the last quarter cup, or use a cup of cake flour in place of one cup of the all-purpose.
• Yield and servingOne loaf, about 10 to 12 slices. Served warm with whipped cream it eats as a pudding; cooled and wrapped overnight the spice deepens and it slices more cleanly.