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Madeira Sauce (To a pint of brown stock add)
To a pint of brown stock add a tablespoonful of finely minced ham, the same amount of finely chopped celery, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley. Simmer together fifteen minutes. Cook together 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour, and add to the sauce. Cook until thickened and smooth. Add 1/4 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, 2 drops of Tabasco, salt to taste, and half a glassful of madeira. Strain and serve very hot.
A short, classic brown sauce for venison, hare or game birds, built on stock rather than long-reduced demi-glace. It comes together in about half an hour.
- Add the Madeira last and off the heatThe wine goes in at the very end, after thickening. Held at a simmer it loses its aroma and turns flat and slightly bitter; a minute of gentle heat to take off the raw edge is enough.
- "Half a glassful"A wine glass of the period was usually reckoned at about 2 fluid ounces, which would make this roughly 1 fluid ounce, about 2 tablespoons of Madeira. Taste before committing. Sercial or Verdelho suits game better than the sweeter Bual or Malmsey.
- Brown stockVeal or beef bones roasted dark, then simmered, is the intended base. A good unsalted beef stock works; avoid anything already seasoned, since the ham and the reduction both add salt.
- Kitchen bouquetA browning and seasoning liquid of caramel colour with vegetable flavouring, still sold under that name. It darkens the sauce and deepens it slightly. A quarter teaspoon is all that is wanted; more tastes of burnt sugar.
- The rouxCook the butter and flour together two or three minutes before adding, so the sauce does not taste pasty. Whisk it into the hot stock a little at a time, then simmer several minutes to cook out the flour and let it thicken properly.
- StrainingThe ham, celery and parsley are flavouring only and are discarded. Strain through a fine sieve; press the solids to get the liquid out, then discard them.
- TabascoTwo drops in a pint is a background warmth, not heat. It should not be identifiable in the finished sauce.