Orange Fritters

A short entry that assumes you already have a fritter batter standing by; the technique matters more than the list. The hinge is dry fruit — orange slices weep juice, and wet slices shed their coating in the fat.

• The batterNone is specified here; recipes of this kind commonly assumed a general fritter batter given elsewhere. A plain one of 1 cup flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder, a pinch of salt, 1 egg and about 2/3 cup milk, beaten smooth, will coat several oranges' worth of slices.
• Fat temperature"Fry a rich brown" implies deep fat; in modern terms roughly 365-375F works. Cooler than that and the batter absorbs oil before it sets; hotter and the sugar on the fruit scorches before the coating cooks through.
• Dry the slicesAfter slicing, lay the rounds on paper or a cloth for ten minutes before sugaring and dipping. Surface juice is the usual reason fritter batter slides off citrus.
• Choosing oranges"Seedless" in this period most often pointed to navel oranges. Navels remain the right choice -- large, easy to pith, and firm enough to hold a third-inch round.
• White fibreThe pith is bitter and turns leathery in hot fat. Peel with a knife rather than by hand and pare the membrane back to the flesh.
• Powdered sugarIn this period the term usually meant sugar pulverised fine, not necessarily the modern cornstarch-blended confectioners' sugar, though the latter substitutes well. The first dusting helps the batter grip; the second is finish only and should go on while the fritters are still hot.
• DrainingA rack over a tray keeps the undersides crisp. Paper towel alone traps steam and softens the coating within a minute or two.
• Yield and servingNo quantity is given. As a rough guide, three or four oranges will yield somewhere near twenty slices, enough for four as a dessert. Fritters do not hold; fry in small batches and send them out at once.