Popovers

A very plain popover batter, thinner than a muffin and leavened by nothing but steam and beaten egg white. The measurements are workable as written; the baking time is the part that needs attention.

• SaltspoonfulA saltspoon is a quarter of a teaspoon. That is the right amount of salt for one cup of flour.
• Gem-pansCast-iron gem pans are the ancestor of the muffin tin. Any heavy muffin tin or a dedicated deep popover pan will do; heat the greased pan in the oven before filling so the batter starts rising immediately.
• Hot ovenRead this as 425-450F. Popovers depend on a fierce initial blast to turn the milk to steam and inflate the shell before the crust sets.
• Fifteen minutes is not enoughFifteen minutes at high heat will puff them but leave the interior wet, and they will collapse as they cool. Popovers of this size need roughly 20 minutes hot, then another 15-20 at about 350F to dry the walls. They should feel light and sound hollow before they come out.
• Do not open the ovenThe hinge of the whole dish. Any draught during the rise deflates the shells and they will not recover.
• Folding the whiteSeparating the egg and folding in the beaten white gives a softer, more muffin-like crumb. For a hollower, leathery-shelled popover, beat the whole egg into the milk and flour until the batter is smooth and no thicker than heavy cream.
• Egg proportionOne egg per cup of flour is lean by current standards; two gives a taller rise and a sturdier shell. Let the batter rest 20-30 minutes before baking so the flour hydrates.
• YieldAbout six standard muffin cups, or four to five deep popover cups. Serve straight from the oven; they are at their best within minutes and go limp quickly.