Russian Punch Tart

A shorthand entry that assumes you already know how to build a filled cake shell. The method is simple: hollow a sponge loaf, soak the crumbs in spiked jelly, pack them back in, and ice the whole thing over.

• ArrackA South Asian and Indonesian spirit distilled from sugarcane or palm sap, once standard in punch. Batavia arrack is still imported and is the type usually associated with punch of this kind, though the recipe specifies nothing beyond "arrack"; a good aged rum is the usual stand-in, though it is sweeter and less funky.
• Hollowing the loafCut a lid off the top of the sponge and dig out the interior with a spoon or small knife, leaving walls and a base about half an inch thick. A day-old cake cuts far more cleanly than a fresh one.
• How much liquidThe quantities are left entirely to the cook. Thin the jelly with brandy a spoonful at a time until it pours like heavy cream, then fold in crumbs until the mixture mounds on a spoon. Too loose and the shell collapses when iced.
• Crab-apple jellyThe recipe gives no reason for the choice, but crab apple is sharp and sets firmly on its own pectin, which would cut the sweetness of the sponge. Redcurrant or quince jelly behaves much the same way; commercial apple jelly is milder and sweeter.
• Almond icingThe recipe says only "icing flavored with almonds" and does not say which kind; a poured or spread water icing of confectioners' sugar and a little liquid works. If using almond extract rather than any bitter-almond preparation, keep it to a few drops: it overwhelms the arrack quickly.
• Chill before icingReplace the lid, press gently, and refrigerate the filled loaf an hour or two so the jelly sets and the shape holds. Icing a warm, soft cake produces a sagging tart and a translucent glaze.
• Yield and servingNo yield is given; a loaf sponge of ordinary size will cut into roughly eight to ten slices. Cut with a long serrated knife wiped between cuts, and serve the day it is assembled while the shell is still distinct from the filling.