Surprise Melon

A serving conceit rather than a cooked dish: a small melon hollowed out, cut with a zigzag rim, and filled with ice cream or cream and fruit. Everything depends on the melon being cold and dry before it is filled.

• VandykingTo "mark into vandykes" is to cut a continuous zigzag of Vs around the melon's circumference, about a third of the way down, so the top lifts off as a crown-shaped lid. Work with a small sharp knife pushed in at an angle, alternating directions, and only pull the halves apart once the cuts meet all the way round.
• Which melonA small round cantaloupe, charentais or galia, around 2 lb, gives one or two servings; a honeydew is larger and better for four. Slice a thin sliver off the base so it stands upright, taking care not to pierce the cavity.
• Dry the cavityAfter the seeds and fibre come out, the inside is wet and will thin ice cream or weep into whipped cream. Blot it with paper towel and chill the shell, cut side down, for at least an hour before filling.
• Ice cream or creamIce cream must go in straight from the freezer and the melon must be very cold, or the filling slumps within minutes. Whipped cream is the easier choice: whip to soft peaks, fold in the fruit, and it will hold rather better on the table.
• The chopped fruitThe recipe specifies nothing beyond "chopped fruit"; soft summer fruit or the scooped melon flesh itself would suit. If the fruit has been sugared, drain it well before folding it in, or the liquid will break the cream.
• The bowThe recipe finishes by pinning a bow on the lid, purely for show. Use a clean ribbon, and tying rather than pinning keeps anything metal away from the filling.
• ServingAssemble at the last moment and bring it whole to the table, lid in place, then lift the lid and spoon out. One small melon serves one or two; count on a 3-4 lb melon for four.