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To Dress Sauerkraut
Take as much kraut as will be required out of the barrel, and wash it lightly, first in warm, and then in cold water. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan, put in half the kraut, lay upon this the meat which it is to accompany--ham, beef, pork, sausages, etc., are those usually served with it--lay the remainder of the kraut on the meat, and pour over it a little stock and a glass of wine if liked. Add stock or water occasionally, as it is required, to moisten the preparation, and stir it every now and then to keep it from burning. Cover closely, and simmer gently over a slow fire until the meat is done enough, and the kraut is soft. Serve the meat on a hot dish with the sauerkraut round it. It can scarcely be boiled too long, and can be warmed up again with fresh meat a second time. Time to boil, not less than three hours at the first boiling.
A straightforward braise in which the kraut is both bed and blanket for the meat. The method still works, but the assumptions behind it — a barrel of kraut in the cellar, a fire that could be left low for hours — need translating.
- Kraut from a barrelBarrel kraut tended to be saltier and sharper than modern refrigerated or jarred sauerkraut. Taste first: bagged fresh kraut usually needs only draining, and the double wash in warm then cold water will strip a good deal of the flavour out of it. Rinse only if it is aggressively salty.
- The slow fireA covered pot at the barest simmer, or a 300F oven, which is easier to leave alone for three hours. Stirring is only needed if the pan is on direct heat; the kraut will catch on a dry bottom.
- QuantityNo amounts are given. Reckon about 2 lb of kraut and 2-3 lb of meat for six, with the meat fully buried between the two layers of kraut.
- The meatThe original lists ham, beef, pork and sausages; smoked and cured cuts suit it particularly well — ham hock, smoked pork shoulder, salt pork, kielbasa or similar. Fresh sausages should go in for the last 30-40 minutes only, or they will fall apart over three hours.
- Liquid"A little stock" means enough to keep the pot moist, not to cover — perhaps a cup to start. The wine is unspecified; a dry white such as Riesling suits it. Cured meat brings its own salt, so use unsalted stock.
- Three hoursNot an exaggeration. Long cooking is what turns raw, acidic kraut mellow and silky, and the note that it can scarcely be boiled too long is accurate. Fresh cuts such as pork shoulder will be tender well before the kraut is at its best.
- Warming up a second timeReheating the kraut with new meat is sound practice and improves it, but cool the pot promptly and refrigerate rather than leaving it out. Bring it back to a full simmer before serving.
- ServingMeat sliced onto a hot platter, kraut heaped around it, as the recipe directs. Boiled or steamed potatoes and mustard go well with it.