Waldorf Salad

A short recipe that depends almost entirely on how the apples are handled. Cut them last and dress them at once, or the salad browns before it reaches the table.

• A head of celeryThis means the whole bunch as sold, not a single rib. Trim the base, discard the coarse outer stalks or save them for stock; the pale inner ribs and heart make the best salad. A head will give roughly two cupfuls diced, depending on size.
• Apple choice"Good eating apples" means firm and crisp rather than a cooking variety that collapses. Honeycrisp, Braeburn, Granny Smith or Cox all hold their cubes; leave the skin on for colour if you like.
• BrowningToss the apple cubes with a little lemon juice, or fold them straight into the dressing as you cut them. Undressed apple oxidises within minutes.
• English walnutsThe ordinary walnut of the supermarket, as distinguished from the stronger American black walnut. Half a cupful, chopped; toasting them briefly in a dry pan improves them and is not in the original.
• Cooked salad dressingA boiled dressing of egg, flour or cornstarch, vinegar, sugar and milk, thickened over heat — the standard alternative to mayonnaise in this period. Either works; the boiled version is sharper and less rich.
• Cube sizeKeep celery and apple to about half an inch and match them. The dish is built on the contrast between the two textures, which is lost if the pieces are minced.
• Yield and servingServes four to six as a side salad. Assemble no more than half an hour before serving and keep it cold; the celery weeps and the nuts soften if it stands.