Cook and Be Cool

Twenty complete cold luncheons for hot weather — “efficiency is only another name for intelligent laziness.”

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Banana Sponge

Soak half a tablespoonful of gelatin in four tablespoonfuls of cold water, dissolve in a quarter cup of boiling water. Take a cup of banana pulp, mashed through a coarse sieve, add half a cup of confectioners' sugar and three tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. When the gelatin begins to thicken, add this mixture to it. Then add the stiffly beaten white of one egg. Put in paper cases, chill, sprinkle with chopped nuts just before serving.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

The problem here is structural, not a matter of dated measurements: the raw egg white is the aerator, and nothing in the method ever heats it.

A Little History

Gelatin "sponges" and "whips" were a fixture of American light cookery from the late nineteenth century onward, once powdered granulated gelatin made setting a dessert a matter of soaking and stirring rather than boiling calves' feet. The method typically runs the same way: bloom the gelatin, flavour it with fruit and sugar, catch it at the moment it begins to thicken, and beat or fold in egg white so the setting jelly traps air and swells. Bananas entered this repertoire as the fruit trade made them a cheap year-round staple in North American cities, and they suited the technique because their pulp sieves smooth without cooking. The paper cases and a scatter of chopped nuts do the work of presentation. That avoidance of the stove is precisely what makes the recipe unusable now.

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