Clam Fritters

A short list in the plainest style of the period, when a cook was assumed to know what to do with a batter and a kettle of fat. The proportions are sound; the handling of the clams is what decides the result.

• A pint of clamsThis means shucked clams measured in their liquor, not clams in the shell — a pint of shucked meats weighs roughly a pound, though the number of clams needed varies with their size. Drained chopped clams from a fishmonger work; canned chopped clams will do, but several cans are needed to make up a pint of meats.
• Drain and chopWhole clams in a fritter cook into rubber bands. Drain them well, chop coarsely, and pat dry, or the batter will thin out and the fritters will spit in the fat.
• Save the liquorClam liquor is the seasoning this list does not mention. A tablespoon or two stirred into the batter in place of some of the milk carries far more flavour than added salt.
• Baking powderTwo teaspoons to 1 1/3 cups flour is a little generous but within the usual range, and works with today's double-acting powder. Mix the batter just until combined and fry it promptly.
• FryingDeep fat at 365-375F, dropped by the spoonful, gives about three minutes to a golden fritter. Below 350F they soak; above 385F the outside colours before the centre sets.
• SeasoningNo salt or pepper is listed. Clams vary from briny to bland, so season the batter to taste before frying and check it by cooking one test fritter.
• YieldThe quantities make a generous amount of batter, enough for four as an entree course. They are best within minutes of leaving the fat.