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Shrimps a la Newburg

1 pint shrimps 3 tablespoons butter 1/2 teaspoon salt Few grains cayenne 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon flour 1/2 cup cream Yolks 2 eggs 2 tablespoons Sherry wine Clean shrimps and cook three minutes in two tablespoons butter. Add salt, cayenne, and lemon juice, and cook one minute. Remove shrimps, and put remaining butter in chafing-dish, add flour and cream; when thickened, add yolks of eggs slightly beaten, shrimps, and wine. Serve with toast or Puff Paste Points.

For the Modern Kitchen

A chafing-dish entree from the era when Newburg sauce was a supper-room standard. The whole dish hangs on keeping the egg yolks below a simmer.

A Little History

Newburg sauce - cream, egg yolks, butter and sherry, sometimes with a little cayenne - is generally traced to Delmonico's in New York in the 1870s, where it was first made with lobster and is said to have been named for a patron; the frequently repeated story of the name being altered from "Wenberg" to "Newburg" after a falling-out is traditional rather than documented. The formula spread quickly to other shellfish, shrimp being the cheaper and more widely available option, and by the turn of the century it had become the archetypal chafing-dish preparation. That matters for understanding the recipe: chafing-dish cookery was fashionable domestic entertaining, done at the table in front of guests, which is exactly why a dish built on an easily curdled egg sauce needed a gentle, controllable flame.

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