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Apple Water

Six sour, juicy apples; slice in a stone pitcher, add a tablespoon of sugar and pour over it one quart of boiling water.

Cover closely, and when cold, strain.

Mildly laxative.

For the Modern Kitchen

A cold apple infusion from the invalid-cookery chapter, and one of the few sickroom drinks in these books that still tastes good. The whole method is a steep-and-strain, so the fruit choice carries the recipe.

A Little History

Many English and American household manuals of the period carried a set of "invalid" or "sickroom" drinks — barley water, toast water, rice water, flaxseed tea, apple water — thin, bland, mostly non-dairy liquids for someone with a fever and no appetite. They belonged to a medical culture in which nursing the sick happened at home, usually by women of the household, and in which the cook was expected to know what to send upstairs on a tray. Apple water is the most appealing of the set: it is essentially a cold-brewed, unfermented apple infusion, close to what a modern kitchen would call a fruit tisane or an unfiltered apple tea. The note that it is "mildly laxative" reflects the era's confidence that fruit acids and pectin acted gently on the bowels, a belief sometimes connected, though only by interpretation, to older humoral ideas about cooling, opening foods rather than to any measured trial. The insistence on a stone pitcher may have had practical reasons in a kitchen full of metal vessels, though the manuals do not say so.

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