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Rice Water

Two tablespoons of rice, one quart of boiling water. Simmer two hours, strain, add a pinch of salt, sugar and brandy to taste. Use either hot or cold.

A few raisins can be boiled in with the rice sometimes.

For the Modern Kitchen

A sickroom drink rather than a dish: two hours of simmering pulls starch out of the rice into the water, which is then strained and flavoured. The rice itself is discarded, or eaten separately.

A Little History

Nineteenth-century cookbooks commonly carried an "invalid cookery" chapter, because nursing the sick happened at home and the cook was expected to supply it: beef tea, barley water, gruel, arrowroot, toast water, and rice water. Rice water was among the plainest of them — something to give a patient who could keep almost nothing down. The reasoning behind it was old and largely sound in outline: starchy liquids are bland, easy to swallow, and supply fluid with a little energy, and rice water is still used in parts of Asia and Latin America as a domestic drink for upset stomachs. The brandy reflects a period conviction, since abandoned, that spirits were a restorative to be dosed like medicine. The instruction to boil in "a few raisins sometimes" is a reminder that these preparations were served over days and weeks, and that even a very plain drink had to be varied to remain drinkable.

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