Hot Weather Dishes

Philadelphia, 1888: what to eat when it is too hot to cook, from the cooking-school teacher who taught the city.

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Beauregard Eggs (1 tablespoonful of corn starch)

1 tablespoonful of corn starch Lump of butter, size of a 5 squares of toast 1/2 pint of milk Lump of butter, size of a walnut Salt and pepper to taste Cover the eggs with boiling water and boil for twenty minutes. Take off their shells, chop the whites fine and rub the yolks through a sieve. Do not mix them. Now put the milk on to boil, rub the butter and corn starch together, and add to the boiling milk. Now add the whites, salt and pepper. Put the toast on a hot dish, cover it with a layer of this white sauce, then a layer of the yolks, then the remainder of the whites, and then the remainder of the yolks. Sprinkle the top with a little salt and pepper, stand in the oven for a minute or two, and serve. This is good and sightly. 12 eggs

For the Modern Kitchen

The ingredient list has come through garbled — a printer's or scanner's collapse of two columns — but the method is intact and the dish is simply creamed egg whites and sieved yolks layered over toast. A few numbers need pinning down before you start.

A Little History

Creamed hard-boiled eggs on toast, with the yolks pushed through a sieve for effect, ran through American cookery under several names — goldenrod eggs, eggs à la crème, and, in the South, Beauregard eggs, generally said to be named for the Louisiana-born Confederate general P. G. T. Beauregard. The attribution is traditional rather than documented, and the dish has no obvious connection to the man. The white sauce thickened with cornstarch rather than flour is a mark of the period too — cornstarch was heavily promoted through the later nineteenth century as quicker and less liable to taste raw, and household writers took it up enthusiastically for exactly this kind of light supper dish.

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