Hot Weather Dishes

Philadelphia, 1888: what to eat when it is too hot to cook, from the cooking-school teacher who taught the city.

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Lobster Farci

2 cups of boiled lobster Yolks of three hard boiled eggs 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs 1/2 pint of milk I even tablespoonful of flour ¼ nutmeg, grated Salt and cayenne to taste Cut the lobster into small pieces. Put the milk on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together, and stir into the milk when boiling; stir until smooth, take from the fire, add the bread crumbs, parsley, lobster, hard boiled eggs mashed fine, salt, nutmeg and cayenne; mix all well together. Be careful when opening the lobster not to break the body or tail shells. Wash the shells and wipe them dry, and with a sharp knife or scissors cut off the under part of the shell. Now join the large ends of the two tail shells to the body, forming a boat. Put the farci into these shells, brush it over the top with beaten egg, sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs and place in a quick oven for fifteen minutes to brown. Serve hot in the shells garnished with parsley.

For the Modern Kitchen

A late-Victorian stuffed-lobster dish: a thick béchamel bound with hard-boiled yolk and bread, packed back into the cleaned shells and browned. The whole thing depends on the sauce being stiff enough to hold its shape.

A Little History

Farci is simply French for "stuffed," and the borrowing is the point: American cookbooks of the 1880s and 1890s reached for French terms to lift a dish of leftover shellfish and white sauce into something fit for company. The technique is the same one behind coquilles and deviled crab — bind cooked shellfish in béchamel, return it to its own shell, crumb the top and brown it — a nineteenth-century solution to serving an expensive ingredient in a way that stretched it and arrived at the table looking whole.

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