Hot Weather Dishes

Philadelphia, 1888: what to eat when it is too hot to cook, from the cooking-school teacher who taught the city.

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Tomato Sauce with Okra

Make a Tomato Sauce, and when done, add a half pint of stewed okra and a quarter teaspoonful of powdered coriander seed.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-line addition to a sauce that appears earlier in the same section, so the whole dish depends on the tomato base you build first. The instructions assume you already have both components cooked.

A Little History

Okra came to American kitchens through the West African diaspora and the Caribbean, and by the nineteenth century it was thoroughly domesticated in Southern cooking — in gumbo, in soups, and as a stewed vegetable in its own right. Okra is a high-summer crop that peaks alongside tomatoes, and okra stewed with tomatoes was itself a long-standing Southern dish. The coriander seed is the more unusual touch, and points to the long habit in nineteenth-century Anglo-American cookbooks of borrowing single "East India" spices to season an otherwise plain sauce. Recipes of this kind were written as a one-line variation on a base sauce given a few pages earlier.

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