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Frozen Desserts: Serve
MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Boil the sugar and water together pieces of oranges, and serve in five minutes, add the coffee, then the cream, and when cold, freeze. Serve in glasses.
Iced Lemonade. 2 cupfuls sugar, 4 cupfuls water, Juice 4 large lemons.
Melt the sugar and water together, add the lemon juice, and freeze to the consistency of soft snow. Serve in lemonade glasses.
Iced Raspberry Vinegar.
Sugar, 1 quart water, Raspberry vinegar.
Mix the sugar, raspberry vinegar, and water according to taste, making it a little oversweet; freeze Coffee Frappé. 8 cupfuls water, 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 cupful coffee, White 1 egg.
Put the coffee in a farina boiler, pour boiling water over it, stir occasionally five minutes, then strain through fine muslin, add the sugar, and stir until dissolved. When cold, add the white of egg unbeaten, and freeze to the consistency of wet snow.
Serve in punch glasses. Tea frappé may be made after the same fashion.
Orange Granite. 6 oranges, 2 cupfuls orange juice, 2 cupfuls sugar, 2 cupfuls water.
Boil the sugar and water five minutes. Peel the oranges, remove every particle of white skin, separate the carpels and carefully remove the seeds. Drop these into the hot sirup, and stand an hour, then drain the sirup into another vessel, add the orange juice, mix, strain, and freeze.
When frozen rather stiff. add the glasses.
Strawberry Granite. 2 cwnfuls orange juice, 2 cupfuls strawberry juice, 1 quart whole strawberries, 3 cupfuls sugar, 3 cupfuls water.
Boil the sugar and water five minutes. Drop the strawberries into this sirup, lift them carefully with a skimmer, and place on a platter to cool; then add to the sirup the strawberry and orange juice. Strain and freeze. When frozen, stir in the strawberries, and serve in glasses.
FROZEN FRUITS Frozen Apricots. 1 quart can apricots, 2 tablespoonfuls gelatin, 2 cupfuls sugar, 2 cupfuls cream.
Drain the apricots, cut them in pieces, measure the sirup, and add sufficient water to make 1½ pints; add the sugar. Cover the gelatin with a little cold water and soak half an hour. Boil the sugar, sirup, and water together five minutes, skim carefully, add the gelatin, stir until dissolved, add the apricots, and stand to cool; then freeze, stirring slowly.
When frozen, remove the dasher and add the cream whipped. Repack, cover, and stand two hours. Dried apricots, carefully cooked, can be used.
Frozen Bananas. 1 dozen red-skinned bananas, 2 cupfuls sugar, 2 cupfuls water, Juice 2 oranges, 2 cupfuls cream.
Peel the bananas, cut them in slices, then mash fine. Boil the water and sugar five minutes, strain, and when cool, add the orange juice and bananas. Freeze, turning slowly.
When frozen, remove the dasher and FROZEN DESSERTS stir in carefully the cream whipped.
Repack, and put away to ripen.
Frozen Peaches. 2 pounds peaches, 4 cupfuls water, 6 peach kernels, 3 cupfuls sugar.
Add the sugar and lemon juice to the berries, and stand an hour. Mash the berries, add the water, stir until the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, and freeze slowly.
ICE CREAM cupful very strong coffee, Pare the peaches and take out the Coffee Cream. stones. Pound the kernels to a paste, add them with the sugar to the water, boil five minutes, strain, and cool. When cold, add the peaches, mashed, and freeze. Repack, and stand to ripen.
Frozen Cherries. 2 quarts morello cherries, 4 cupfuls sugar, 4 cupfuls water.
Stone the cherries, mix them with the sugar, and stand an hour; add the water, stir until the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, put in the freezer, and turn rapidly until frozen.
Frozen Pineapples. 2 large pineapples, 4 cupfuls sugar, 4 cupfuls water.
Pare the pineapples, cut out the eyes, and grate the flesh, rejecting the core; add the sugar and water, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and freeze.
Frozen Raspberries. 1 quart raspberries, 2 cupfuls sugar, Juice 2 lemons, 4 cupfuls water.
Add the sugar and lemon juice to the berries, mash, and stand an hour; add the water, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and freeze.
Frozen Strawberries. 1 quart strawberries, Juice 2 lemons, 2 cupfuls sugar, 4 cupfuls water. 1 pint milk, 3 pints cream, 2 cupfuls sugar.
Heat the milk and half the cream in a double boiler. Put in the coffee and sugar, and stir until the latter is dissolved. Take from the fire, and when cool, put into the freezer with the uncooked cream. If you wish to have a light, more spongy cream, you may whip the uncooked cream, and stir this into the contents of the freezer when these have begun to congeal. Freeze, and when solid, pack for an hour before serving.
Lemon Cream. 1 pint cream, teaspoonful salt, 1 cupful sugar, 1 lemon.
Pare the rind off a lemon, cut in halves, remove the seeds, and squeeze out the juice. Strain the juice and mix it with the same amount of sugar. Boil until clear, stir through the cream, and freeze.
Vanilla Ice Cream. 3 cupfuls milk, 1½ cupfuls whipped cream, cupful sugar, 2 eggs, 1 tablespooonful McIlhenny's Mexican Vanilla.
Beat the eggs with the sugar, scald the milk, blend, and pour the mixture in a double boiler. Cook a few minutes to set the eggs, but not so the mixture thickens like a custard.
Remove from the fire, cool, add the cream and vanilla. When cold, freeze.
Pistachio Cream 1 quart cream, MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK pound pistachio nuts 1 quart milk, 1½ cupfuls sugar, 1 dessertspoonful pistache tract. ex Shell the nuts and remove the outside skins; chop fine and rub to a paste, adding gradually the extract.
Add the sugar to the milk, and stir in a double boiler until the sugar is dissolved and the milk hot. Stand until cold. Add a little cream gradually to the nuts, continue rubbing constantly to a smooth paste, then add the entire quantity of cream. the nuts are pale, add 2 drops green coloring. Add this to the milk, and freeze.
Bisque Ice Cream.
Yolks 8 eggs, 11 pints cream, Juice 1 orange, cupful sugar, saltspoonful salt, → pound macaroons If Beat the first 3 ingredients with a wire whip until the mixture is very smooth. Pour it into a saucepan, place over a slow fire, and stir constantly until it is a custard. Do not let it boil. Strain into a bowl which has been chilled; stir two minutes and freeze. Remove dasher, flavor with teaspoonful grated rind of orange or lemon, add the cream whipped stiff, and the macaroons crushed fine. Pack in ice and salt.
Strawberry Ice Cream. quart strawberries, 1 quart cream, 2 cupfuls sugar.
Put half the sugar and half the cream in a double boiler over the fire; when the sugar dissolves, cool. Mash the strawberries, adding half the sugar, then stand an hour. Press through a colander. Add remaining half the cream to the sweetened cream and freeze moderately stiff, then add the berries, and repack. If canned strawberries are used, half the sugar may be omitted.
Pineapple Cream. 1 quart cream, 2 cupfuls sugars Juice 1 lemon, 1 large pineapple or pint can.
This page runs together a long sequence of water ices, frozen fruits and custard ice creams from the era of the hand-crank freezer. Most of it translates directly to a modern machine, with two exceptions noted below.
- Peach kernels are the problemFrozen Peaches calls for six peach kernels pounded to a paste and boiled with the syrup. Peach, apricot and cherry kernels contain amygdalin, which releases hydrogen cyanide when the nut is crushed and wetted; they were used in the period exactly as bitter almonds were, for that almond note. Do not make that recipe as written, and do not substitute a quantity you have guessed at. Use a current peach ice recipe flavoured with almond extract instead.
- Cupfuls and the freezerA cupful here is 8 fluid ounces. "Freeze" means a churn freezer packed with cracked ice and coarse salt, roughly three parts ice to one part salt by volume. In a modern ice cream maker, chill every mixture thoroughly before it goes in.
- Repack and ripen"Remove the dasher, repack, and stand two hours" is the hardening step. In a home freezer, transfer the churned mixture to a chilled covered container and hold it two to four hours at 0F before serving. Skipping this leaves the fruit creams slushy.
- Farina boilerA farina boiler is a double boiler with an inner pan for cereals. Any double boiler or a bowl over simmering water does the same job for the coffee frappe.
- Granite"Granite" is the French granite, a coarse-grained water ice. Rather than churning it smooth, freeze it in a shallow pan and rake it with a fork every 30 minutes until it is grainy.
- Raw egg whiteCoffee Frappe adds an unbeaten egg white to the coffee syrup after it has cooled, so the white is never cooked. It was presumably there to keep the ice fine-grained. Use pasteurised egg white, or leave it out and stir the frappe more often.
- Ingredients to translateRaspberry vinegar is a sweetened fruit shrub, still sold or easily bought as drinking vinegar. Morello cherries are sour cherries; frozen or jarred sour cherries work. "Red-skinned bananas" are the sweeter red variety, not plantains; ordinary ripe bananas are a fair substitute. McIlhenny's Mexican Vanilla was a branded extract of the day, so read it as one tablespoon vanilla extract.
- GelatinTwo tablespoonfuls of gelatin for the apricots is roughly two and a half to three envelopes of modern powdered gelatin, bloomed in cold water and dissolved in the hot syrup. It sets the ice against melting rather than adding flavour.
- YieldsNone is given. The quart-of-cream ice creams make roughly 2 to 2 1/2 quarts, or 10 to 12 servings; the water ices and frappes about the same volume served in small glasses.
Frozen desserts occupy a long stretch of American household books between about 1880 and 1915 because ice had become cheap and reliable: the commercial ice trade, and later mechanical ice plants, put cracked ice and rock salt within reach of ordinary kitchens, and the geared churn freezer did the rest. The vocabulary on this page is borrowed wholesale from French confectionery, where a water ice, a granite and a frappe were distinguished chiefly by how coarse the crystals were allowed to grow, and where a bisque meant a cream stiffened with crushed macaroons or ratafias. The frozen fruit recipes are essentially preserving recipes taken one step further, fruit stood an hour with sugar to draw the juice, then diluted and frozen, and they cluster around the short seasons of strawberries, raspberries and morello cherries. The peach kernels pounded to a paste belong to the same period habit that put bitter almonds and laurel leaves into custards for their almond perfume, a practice that food chemistry of the following decades discouraged.