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Frozen Desserts: Lemon
Cut the remaining 2 ounces into very thin slices and stir these into the water ice. Repack, and stand to ripen. Lemon Water Ice. 4 large juicy lemons, 4 cupfuls water, 1 orange, 2½ cupfuls sugar.
Quince Water Ice. 3 large ripe quinces, 4 cupfuls water, 1 cupful sugar.
Pare the quinces and cut into thin slices, add with the sugar to the water, cover the saucepan, cook fifteen minutes, strain, and freeze.
Italian Tutti-Frutti. 1 pound mixed French candied fruits, 4 cupfuls water, 2½ cupfuls sugar, 3 lemons, 4 oranges.
Chop the fruit fine. Put the sugar and water with chipped rinds of 2 lemons and 1 orange to boil five min- Put the sugar and water on to boil. Chip the yellow rind from 3 lemons and the orange, add to the sirup, boil five minutes, and stand to cool. Squeeze the juice from the orange and lemons, add to the cold sirup, strain through a cloth, and freeze. d Barberry Water Ice. 4 large juicy lemons, 4 cupfuls water, 1 orange, 2¼ cupfuls sugar, 1 cupful barberry juice.
Add pint barberry juice, slightly sweetened, to the recipe for lemon water ice, before freezing. Pomegranate Water Ice. 1 dozen ripe pomegranates, 2 cupfuls water, 2 cupfuls sugar.
Cut the pomegranates into halves, remove the seeds carefully from the inside bitter skin, press in a sieve without breaking the seeds. Add the sugar to the juice, and stir until dissolved, add the water, strain, and freeze. g a, Round Fluted Mold; b. French Bread Pan; c, Melon Mold; d. Pudding Mold, e, Shell Mold for Jelly; f, Deep Fluted Mold; g, Individual Shell Mold for Jeny or Cream: h. Individual Jelly Mold. utes. When cold, add the juice of 2 lemons and oranges, strain, and freezc very hard; then stir in the fruit, stand thirty minutes, and it is ready to serve.
SHERBETS Lemon Sherbet. 4 lemons, 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 quart boiling water.
Shave off the peer from 2 lemons.
Put the parings into a bowl, add the boiling water, and let stand ten minutes closely covered. Cut the lemons MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK in halves, remove the seeds, squeeze out the juice, and add with the sugar to the water. Strain and freeze.
Lemon Sherbet with Gelatin. 1 tablespoonful gelatin, 3½ cupfuls cold water, 6 lemons, 1 cupful sugar, cupful boiling water.
Soak the gelatin in cupful cold water twenty minutes. Put the sugar and remaining cold water into a pitcher. Pare the lemons, cut in halves, remove the seeds, and press out the juice with a lemon squeezer; add it to the sirup. Dissolve the soaked gelatin in the boiling water, and add to the other mixture. Strain and freeze.
Apple Sherbet. 2 cupfuls sugar Juice 2 lemons, 1 pound apples, 1 quart water, White 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful powdered sugar.
Put the sugar, water, and rind of 1 lemon, chipped, on to boil. Pare, core, and quarter the apples, add them to the sirup, and cook until tender; press through a fine sieve, add the juice of lemons, and, when cold, freeze the same as ice cream. Beat the white of 1 egg until frothy, add a tablespoonful powdered sugar, and beat until white and stiff. Remove the dasher, stir in the meringue, and repack.
Apricot Sherbet. 1 quart apricots, 1 lemon, 1 cupful sugar, 1 cupful water.
Boil the sugar and water five minutes. Press the apricots through a sieve, add to the sirup, and lemon juice. When cold, freeze. Peach sherbet is made in the same manner.
Banana Sherbet. 1 dozen red-skinned bananas, 2 cupfuls sugar, 2 oranges, 1 quart water.
Boil the sugar and water five minutes, and add the juice of the oranges; when cold, stir in the bananas mashed fine, and freeze. Cherry Sherbet. 1 quart sour cherries, 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 quart water.
Boil the sugar and water fifteen minutes. Stone the cherries, and add to the sirup when cold. Press through a sieve, and freeze.
Ginger Sherbet. 4 large juicy lemons, 1 quart water, 11 pounds sugar.
Make a lemon sherbet; when frozen, add a tablespoonful sirup from preserved Canton ginger.
Orange Sherbet. 1 pint orange juice, 2 tablespoonfuls gelatin, 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 quart water.
Cover the gelatin with a little cold water and soak half an hour. Boil the sugar and water five minutes, add the gelatin, and allow to cool. Add the orange juice, and freeze.
Raspberry-and-Currant Sherbet. 1 quart raspberries, pint currant juice, 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 quart water.
Boil the sugar and water five minutes. When cold, add the currant juice and the raspberries, mashed; strain through a cloth, and freeze.
Pineapple Sherbet. 2 large pineapples or 1 quart can, 2½ cupfuls sugar, Juice 2 lemons, 1 quart water.
FROZEN DESSERTS Grate the pineapple. Boil the sugar and water five minutes, add the pineapple and juice of lemons. Strain and freeze.
Pomona Sherbet. 1 pint orange juice, 1 quart new cider, 2 cupfuls sugar.
Mix the cider and orange juice, stir in the sugar until thoroughly dissolved; strain and freeze. Strawberry Sherbet. 1 quart red strawberries, 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 quart water, Juice 2 lemons.
Boil the sugar and water. Add the lemon juice to the strawberries and mash them. When the sirup is cold, pour it over the strawberries, strain and freeze.
Pomegranate Sherbet. 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 teaspooonful gelatin, 1 quart water, dozen blood oranges, 1 lemon.
Prepare a sirup as for lemon sher bet; when cold, add lemon juice, freeze.
Peach Sherbet. 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 teaspoonful gelatin, 2 oranges, 1 quart water, peck peaches, 1 lemon.
To a sirup prepared as for lemon sherbet, add a pint peach pulp, also the orange and lemon juice.
Blackberry Sherbet. 2 quarts blackberries, 1 tablespoonful gelatin, cupfuls granulated sugar, lemons.
Crush 2 quarts juicy blackberries with a cupful granulated sugar. Let stand an hour. Put the fruit and sugar through a vegetable press and strain the juice. There should be at least 1½ pints. To this add another cupful sugar and a pint water, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Have ready a tablespoonful gelatin which has been soaked half an hour in cold water, then dissolved in a little boiling water. Put this with the other ingredients, add the lemon juice, and freeze.
Milk Sherbet.
1 teaspoonful gelating 1½ cupfuls sugar, 1 quart milk, Juice 4 lemons, Juice 1 orange.
Soften the gelatin in cupful milk, dissolve over hot water, and strain into the rest of the milk; turn the milk into the can of the freezer packed for freezing; when thoroughly chilled, add the fruit juice and sugar stirred together; freeze.
FRAPPES Iced Chocolate. 4 ounces Runkel's Sweet Chocolate, Scant cupful sugar, 1 cupful water, 1 quart cream, 1 teaspoonful McIlhenny's Mexican Vanilla.
Put the chocolate, water, and sugar in a saucepan to melt; stir until perfectly smooth. Put the cream in a double boiler, and when hot, add gradually to the chocolate mixture, and beat until thoroughly mixed; when cold, strain, add the vanilla, and freeze.
Iced Coffee. 1⅔ cupfuls sugar, 2 cupfuls water, 2 cupfuls black coffee, 1 quart cream.
This page runs a whole shelf of water ices, sherbets and frappés together, all built on the same frame: a boiled sugar syrup, an acid fruit juice, and a churn. A few conventions in it no longer match a modern kitchen.
- Sugar is structureIn a water ice the sugar is what keeps the mixture scoopable rather than a solid block; the lemon proportion here, 2½ cupfuls to 4 cupfuls water plus the juice of four lemons and an orange, lands in the usual sorbet range of about a quarter to a third sugar by weight. Reducing it for a less sweet result gives a hard, icy brick.
- Cupful and quartA cupful is 8 fl oz, a quart 32 fl oz, a pint 16 fl oz. "Chipped" or "shaved" rind means the coloured zest only, pared thin with a knife; any white pith carried in with it turns the syrup bitter over the five-minute boil.
- Freezing without a crank freezerThese were written for a wooden bucket freezer packed with cracked ice and rock salt, roughly three parts ice to one of salt. An ice-cream machine handles them directly; without one, freeze in a shallow metal pan and stir hard every 30 minutes until set, which gives a coarser but perfectly good ice.
- "Repack and stand to ripen"After churning, the can was sealed, buried in fresh ice and salt and left an hour or more to firm and mellow. The modern equivalent is a covered container in the freezer for two to four hours; take it out 10 minutes before serving so it softens enough to scoop.
- The meringue in the apple sherbetBeaten raw egg white folded in at the end of churning lightens the texture, and it is never cooked. Use pasteurised whites if the sherbet is going to children, older diners or anyone pregnant.
- Gelatin quantitiesA tablespoonful of granulated gelatin is roughly one and a third of the modern quarter-ounce envelopes. It is there to keep the sherbet soft rather than to set it, and it should be fully dissolved before it is added or it will leave lumps in the frozen mixture.
- Milk sherbet: the order mattersThe instruction to chill the milk in the freezer can before adding lemon and orange juice is the hinge of that recipe. Acid poured into warm or room-temperature milk curdles it; cold milk under agitation takes the juice as fine grain that churning breaks up.
- Ingredients you will have to huntBarberry juice, quinces and red-skinned bananas are no longer supermarket goods; barberries appear dried in Persian groceries, quinces seasonally in autumn. "Runkel's Sweet Chocolate" is simply sweetened dark eating chocolate, and any good vanilla extract replaces the branded one.
- YieldThe quart-of-water formulas produce roughly 1½ quarts of finished ice. How many that serves depends entirely on the glass; at the small portions usual for a frozen dessert it will stretch to eight or more.
Water ice and sherbet were often treated as distinct things in American books of this period: the ice was fruit juice, sugar and water and nothing else, while the sherbet might take a little gelatin, beaten egg white or milk to soften the texture, though the line is not held consistently here — several of these sherbets contain none of the three. Still, that softening is how the American use of "sherbet" for a milk-containing frozen dessert eventually took hold. The word itself is generally traced to Arabic sharbat, a sweetened fruit drink, by way of Turkish and Italian. Recipes on this scale — a dozen pomegranates, two quarts of blackberries, a quart of apricots — belong to the era of the hand-crank freezer and cheap harvested ice, when a household with a good garden or a market nearby froze whatever was in glut that week. The presence of barberry and quince alongside pineapple and Canton ginger syrup shows the range: dooryard fruit and imported luxury sitting in the same chapter.