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A Nice Side-Dish
Make a mince meat of turkey; after it is stewed put boiled rice around the dish and set it in an oven to brown. Then garnish with hard boiled eggs.--Mrs.
A leftover-turkey dish written in the shorthand of a cook who already knew what she was doing. Two words need translating before anything else, and the rest is assembly.
- "Mince meat" is not mincemeatNo fruit, suet or spice is intended. It means turkey meat minced — chopped fine, or put through a grinder — and has nothing to do with the sweet pie filling of the same name.
- What "stewed" means hereThe chopped turkey is simmered in gravy or stock until it is moist and holds together, roughly the consistency of a thick hash. The original gives no quantity of liquid and no timing; already-cooked turkey needs only a short simmer to take up the liquid without going stringy.
- The rice borderBoiled long-grain rice is pressed into a ring around the inside edge of the baking dish with the turkey mounded in the centre. It wants to be on the firm, dry side — rice cooked soft will slump and weep. Rice from the day before works well.
- Oven heatThe dish is only being browned, not cooked through. No temperature is given; in a modern oven a hot setting of around 425F for 15-20 minutes would colour the rice edge, while a moderate 350F would take longer and risk drying the meat out.
- Brushing the topThe recipe says nothing about fat, but without some drippings or butter brushed over the rice it will pale and crust rather than brown.
- The garnishHard-boiled eggs would be sliced into rounds or quartered lengthwise and laid over the meat after baking rather than before, which is what the recipe's "then garnish" implies; they toughen in the oven.
- YieldThe recipe gives no quantities at all. Roughly equal volumes of minced turkey and cooked rice would fill a medium baking dish and stretch to four or six, depending on whether it goes to table as a light main or as the side dish the title promises.
Housekeeping in Old Virginia, compiled by Marion Cabell Tyree and published in 1878, drew on contributions from some 250 ladies of Virginia and neighbouring states, which is why so many entries end in a contributor's attribution — here truncated to a bare "Mrs." The recipe belongs to the frugal end of the book: a way of finishing a roast turkey that has already been carved once, dressed up with a rice border so it can go to table looking deliberate. Rice appears frequently in Southern cookbooks of the period, Carolina rice being familiar in Virginia kitchens, and a moulded or piped rice border round a dish of minced meat was a familiar genteel presentation, comparable to the French bordure de riz. Sliced hard-boiled egg was a common finishing garnish of the era, used on dishes from creamed fish to spinach.