How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Baked Sweet Potatoes

Wash and scrub potatoes of a uniform size. Do not break the skins, put them in a kettle of boiling water and boil until, when pierced with a fork, they seem a little hard in the centre. Drain, put them in a baking-pan, run them in a hot oven for about fifteen minutes. In this way the potatoes become mealy and dry. Remove the skins when baked and serve in an uncovered dish.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-stage method — parboil, then finish dry in the oven — that fixes the usual problem with sweet potatoes, which is a wet, sticky interior. A few of the terms need translating.

A Little History

Sweet potatoes were a staple of American cooking long before they were a holiday side dish, and nineteenth-century household books often seem to treat them as a plain vegetable to be boiled, baked or fried in slices — sugar, marshmallow and casserole treatments belong largely to the twentieth century. The parboil-then-bake technique here reflects a common complaint of the period: sweet potatoes were often described as "watery" or "soggy" compared with the mealy white potato, and cooks looked for ways to make them dry and floury instead. The word "mealy" was high praise in these books, applied to potatoes, chestnuts and beans alike. It also sits apart from the American habit of calling the orange-fleshed varieties "yams," a name borrowed from an unrelated African tuber and generally associated with Louisiana growers in the 1930s; a cookbook of this vintage saying "sweet potato" may mean either the drier pale-fleshed sort or the moist orange one, and the drying step suits both.

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