How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Beet Salad

Slice and cut into dice sufficient cold beets to make one pint. When ready to serve heap in the centre of the salad dish, and cover with a half pint of sauce tartar. Garnish with curly parsley and serve.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-ingredient composed salad that depends entirely on the quality of the beets and the sauce. Everything hinges on the beets being fully cooked and thoroughly chilled before they are diced.

A Little History

Beets are often said to have come into American salad bowls by way of the cellar: they store for months in sand or sawdust, so a cook in February had beets when she had little else green or fresh. That is why they turn up dressed with rich sauces rather than eaten as a delicate spring vegetable. The pairing with sauce tartare reflects the late nineteenth-century habit of treating mayonnaise-based sauces as all-purpose salad dressings, interchangeable across fish, chicken, potato and root vegetables. Books of this era, aimed at cooks working with what the pantry held, often present such dishes as assembly instructions rather than recipes proper, assuming the sauce and the cooked beets already exist somewhere in the kitchen.

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