How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Celery (Ereis Put the vinegar)

ereis. Put the vinegar in a porcelain-lined kettle; mix the mustard and turmeric together, moisten with a little cold vinegar, stir into the hot vinegar and continue until it begins to thicken. Add the sugar, mustard seed and oil, and stir again. Pour this while hot over the cauliflower. When cool, put away in glass or stone jars, and it is ready to use.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

What survives here is the tail end of a mustard pickle — the spiced vinegar poured over cauliflower — and the loss is not trivial: every quantity, along with the treatment of the vegetables themselves, belonged to the missing lines above.

A Little History

Mustard pickles of this kind — cauliflower, small onions and cucumber suspended in a turmeric-yellow mustard vinegar — descend from English piccalilli, itself generally traced to eighteenth-century attempts to imitate Indian pickles with English garden vegetables. By the late nineteenth century the American version had largely settled into what cookbooks called chow-chow or mustard pickle. Vegetable cookery books of the period devoted long sections to pickles because pickling was the ordinary answer to a glut.

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