How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Egyptian Salad (Halves or if small simply)

in halves, or if small, simply remove the stem ends. Make a little nest of two or three lettuce leaves, arrange uniformly on a dish, place a half tomato in each nest. Put a tablespoonful of Mayonnaise on top and serve immediately.

For the Modern Kitchen

The text as printed begins mid-sentence — the missing opening almost certainly instructed the cook to scald, peel and chill the tomatoes, then cut them in halves. What survives is a simple composed salad that depends entirely on the quality of three components.

A Little History

Nineteenth- and early twentieth-century cookbooks attached exotic place-names to salads with great freedom, and "Egyptian" here is probably best read as decoration rather than descent — the same era produced Spanish, Turkish and Russian salads that shared little with the countries named. What the recipe really documents is the arrival of the tomato as a raw salad vegetable in English-speaking kitchens. Well into the 1870s tomatoes were commonly stewed, baked or made into ketchup, and the notion of eating one cold and uncooked took hold gradually; by the time mayonnaise-dressed tomato-and-lettuce arrangements appear as a matter of course, as they do here, the fruit had become an everyday summer staple. The composed presentation — individual portions built on a leaf, dressed at the last moment — may point to the period's shift away from the large dressed salad bowl toward plated service, though the fragment is undated and the connection can only be suggested.

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