How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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French Fried Potatoes

Pare six good-sized potatoes and throw them into cold water. Then with a potato scoop, scoop out into little round balls. This scoop may be purchased at a hardware store for twenty-five cents. Throw these balls into boiling

For the Modern Kitchen

The text breaks off mid-sentence, so the frying itself is missing; what survives is the shaping method, which is the part that dates the recipe. Read it as instructions for pommes parisienne — potato balls — rather than for the fried sticks the modern name implies.

A Little History

"French fried" in American cookbooks of this era often meant simply cooked in deep fat, not cut into any particular shape han the batons than the batons now understood by the name; the origin of the phrase itself is disputed. Potatoes turned into small spheres are the classic pommes parisienne of French professional cookery, a garnish shape valued because it browns evenly and looks deliberate on a plate. The aside about buying the scoop at a hardware store for twenty-five cents is characteristic of turn-of-the-century domestic manuals.

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