How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Ripe Tomato Preserves (Stand them in the hot sun one)

stand them in the hot sun one or two days to dry.

Sprinkle several times during the drying with granulated sugar. When perfectly dry pack them in jars with layers of sugar between. Care must be taken not to let the rain or dew fall on them while drying.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is the tail end of a longer method — the page begins mid-sentence, after whatever step scalded, peeled or sugared the tomatoes. What survives describes an open-air sun preserve, and it is the preserving method, not the missing first half, that makes the recipe unusable now.

A Little History

Sun preserves were a standing feature of American cookbooks through the nineteenth century, and tomato versions were among them. The technique — spreading sugared fruit on platters or boards in full sun, sometimes under glass, and bringing it indoors each evening — was valued because it kept the fruit's colour and shape in a way that long boiling did not, and because it cost no fuel in the hottest weeks of the year, when a kitchen range was the last thing anyone wanted lit. Small firm varieties were preferred: the yellow pear and the little red cherry tomatoes appear in such entries, sweetened until they ate more like a candied fruit than a vegetable. That ambiguity is the point of the recipe's placement here. A book called How to Cook Vegetables files the tomato under vegetables, as the market and the dinner table did, while this particular preparation treats it frankly as fruit — a reminder that the tomato's category was settled by custom and tariff law rather than by botany.

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