How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Stuffed Onions

Boil six large onions without peeling for one hour.

Drain, remove the skins, and with a sharp knife cut out the centre of each. Mix two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped cooked ham or tongue with a half cup of bread crumbs ; pour over this one tablespoonful of melted butter, one tablespoonful of cream, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper. Fill the onions with this mixture, place them in a baking-pan, baste them with melted butter, dust them with bread crumbs, and bake in a slow oven one hour. Serve with cream sauce poured over them.

This is one of the most delightful ways of cooking onions, and they may be served with poultry, roasted or braised, or as a garnish for hot beef à la mode.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward stuffed-vegetable recipe that assumes a coal range and an unhurried afternoon. Two hours of total cooking is more than large onions need.

A Little History

Stuffed onions belong to a family of nineteenth-century "made" vegetable dishes, in which a vegetable was hollowed, filled with a small amount of meat and crumbs, and returned to the oven — the same logic behind stuffed tomatoes, stuffed peppers and stuffed cucumbers, all standard in period vegetable chapters. The scale of the meat is telling: two tablespoonfuls of ham or tongue for six onions is a use for scraps from an earlier joint, not a shopping list. The serving suggestion points the same way. Beef à la mode is a larded, braised joint of beef cooked slowly with vegetables and wine, generally traced to French bourgeois cookery and long naturalised in English and American kitchens, and an onion that has already absorbed butter and cream was considered a proper garnish for it rather than a dish in its own right.

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