Fowl
From times very far back there has been a controversy in France as to the comparative merits of old fowls and young chickens. The argument on either side will be found in the article on the soup called Restaurant. In these modern times the chicken seems to get the best of it; and what is to be said of older fowls in the way of culinary preparation is little else than a repetition of the directions already given for dealing with chickens.
FRICANDEAU is a Provençal word meaning something nice. Fricandela is a nice girl; Fric, or Frique (allied to the English freak), meant brisk; Fricaud, dainty; Fricot, a dainty dish; and here is Fricandeau belonging to the same series, and applied especially to a dainty dish of veal, which was invented by one of the cooks of Pope Leo X. The neatest receipt for it is that of Gouffé, who is peculiar, however, in selecting for the dish a piece of the fillet of veal instead of the part most commonly • employed the cushion. "Take three pounds," he says, "bone, trim and lard the outside with thin strips of bacon. Put in the glazing stewpan the trimmings of the meat, with two ounces of sliced carrot, two of onion, pepper and salt. Then lay the fricandeau on the top; add half a pint of broth; boil the broth till it is reduced and becomes thick and yellow; add a pint and a half more broth, and simmer for an hour and a quarter-the stewpan half covered; then close the stewpan and put live coals on the top; baste the fricandeau with the gravy every four minutes till it is sufficiently glazed ; take out the fricandeau and put it on Fritters a dish. Strain the gravy through the pointed strainer, skim the fat from it, and pour it over the meat." The fricandeau may be served either thus simply, or with a garnish of sorrel, endive, or spinach.