Libertyville Presbyterian Cook Book

A small-town Presbyterian congregation's cookbook — measures in c., t. and T., sections from cocktails to sandwiches, page numbers inked by hand.

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Bran Cookies

4 level t cream of tartar 2 C bran 2 small eggs or 1 large one 1 C shortening 1 C sour cream 1 pinch salt 2 level t soda 4 C wheat flour Nutmeg or cinnamon 1 cooking spoon molasses Drop from spoon on buttered pans and bake. 1 egg 1 C sugar 1 C shortening 1 C molasses ½ C hot water

For the Modern Kitchen

A church-supper recipe written for someone who already knew what she was doing: no oven temperature, no baking time, and what looks like two separate ingredient lists run together. Read it as a framework rather than a formula.

A Little History

Bran cookies belong to a run of early twentieth-century American baking that treated bran as a virtue rather than a by-product. Wheat bran, long sold as animal feed and millers' waste, was rebranded for human digestion in the 1900s and 1910s, and by the time cook books like this one were being compiled it had settled comfortably into home baking as a wholesome addition to muffins, gems and drop cookies. The recipe's other habits are older still: sour cream and soda as a leavening pair, molasses for colour and depth in place of costlier sugar, and quantities measured in whatever spoon was nearest the stove. Cook books of the period were often compiled by subscription — each contributor sending in a favourite, often in her own shorthand — and that practice is the usual explanation offered for oven temperatures and baking times going missing, and for two recipes occasionally ending up sharing a single heading in print.

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