Lowney's Cook Book

The chocolate house's complete cookbook, c.1907 — from the value of food to the body through chafing-dish delicacies.

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Blackberry Jelly

Mash blackberries and squeeze in jelly bag. Measure juice, allowing one pound of sugar to each pint of juice. Follow directions for Apple Jelly.

Damson, strawberry, cherry, and raspberry jellies are made in the same way. 4 cups cranberries

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-line recipe that assumes you have already read the apple jelly entry a few pages earlier. The gaps are all in the technique, not the ingredients.

A Little History

Lowney's Cook Book (1907), written by Maria Willett Howard for the Walter M. Lowney chocolate company, was one of many manufacturer-sponsored cookbooks of the period, and its preserving chapter reflects a moment just before commercial pectin changed jelly-making entirely. Cooks then relied on the fruit's own pectin, on adding a share of underripe fruit, and on long hard boiling to concentrate it — which is why the book can tell you to treat blackberry, damson, cherry, strawberry and raspberry the same way and leave it at that. Fruit jelly done this way was a household necessity rather than a luxury: blackberries were gathered wild in quantity in late summer across most of the eastern United States, cost nothing but labour, and turned into the one bright thing on a winter breakfast table. Certo and similar bottled pectins reached American kitchens in the 1910s and 1920s, after which jelly recipes shifted to short boils and fixed timings, and the sheeting-off-a-spoon judgement this recipe depends on became a skill fewer cooks kept.

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