Lowney's Cook Book

The chocolate house's complete cookbook, c.1907 — from the value of food to the body through chafing-dish delicacies.

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Canning and Preserving

CANNED fruits are now more popular with most people than preserved fruits.

The expense in preparing them is less, and the natural flavor is retained.

To prepare fruit for canning, look over carefully, reject imperfect fruit, and be sure that the fruit is clean. The fruit may be cooked in a saucepan with just enough sugar to make it palatable and water to keep the fruit from burning and transferred to sterile jars; or it may be put into steri rs in the first place, and cooked by steam, — the latter method preserves the color and flavor better. To sterilize jars, put jars into cold water, bring water to the boiling point, and boil ten minutes; fill jars with cooked fruit, and pour in syrup to overflowing; adjust rubbers and covers. Invert and let stand on folded cloth until cold; if there are no air bubbles, place jars in a cool dark closet to keep. If air bubbles are present, take off cover, reheat, and add more hot syrup and proceed as before. 4 pounds apples 1 pound sugar

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a general method page for putting up fruit, closing with a bare ratio for apples. The method it describes — open-kettle filling with no processing of the sealed jar — was standard in 1907 and is no longer considered a safe way to preserve anything.

A Little History

Lowney's Cook Book was published in 1907 by Maria Willett Howard for the Walter M. Lowney Company, a Boston chocolate manufacturer, and it ranges well beyond its sponsor's product into the full run of household work. Home canning was then in a confident middle period: the self-sealing glass jar, generally traced to John Landis Mason's 1858 patent, had made putting up fruit ordinary in American kitchens, and the author's remark that canned fruit had overtaken preserves reflects a real shift away from the heavy sugar-to-fruit ratios that had been the only reliable safeguard before airtight closures. What had not yet arrived was the understanding of what actually makes a sealed jar safe. Botulism was identified in the nineteenth century, but the link to improperly processed home-canned goods was not widely established or communicated to home cooks until the 1920s, after which pressure canning and measured boiling-water processing entered the standard advice. Pages like this one show the technique at its most self-assured and least protected.

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