Lowney's Cook Book

The chocolate house's complete cookbook, c.1907 — from the value of food to the body through chafing-dish delicacies.

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Deviled Mignons of Beef

Cut tenderloin steak three fourths inch thick. Cut and roll in rounds, broil over clear fire five minutes. Mix one tablespoon mustard, one tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce, and two tablespoons chopped pimento. Spread on beef, dip in fine bread crumbs, and broil until crumbs are brown. Serve with Béarnaise Sauce.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-stage broil: the steaks are cooked most of the way through first, then coated and returned to the fire only long enough to brown the crumbs. Judge the first stage short, because the second adds heat.

A Little History

"Mignon" is simply French for small and dainty, and by the time Lowney's Cook Book appeared, filet mignon was a familiar American restaurant cut for exactly the sort of small, sauced, individually plated course that filled the entrée section of a formal menu. "Deviled" is older and English: from roughly the eighteenth century onward it meant food made hot with mustard, cayenne or a peppery bottled sauce, usually with a crumb coating browned at the fire. The Worcestershire here is the tell — the sauce had spread from Britain through American kitchens over the second half of the nineteenth century and was a convenient shortcut to a deviled flavour. Pairing a deviled crust with béarnaise, a rich tarragon butter sauce, is characteristic of the period's cooking-school style, which happily set an English chophouse treatment on the same plate as a French sauce and thought nothing of it.

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