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Fried Rye Muffins
3/4 3/4 12 3 teaspoons baking powder teaspoon salt cup rye meal 2 eggs cup flour cup milk 1 cup molasses Mix and sift dry ingredients; add remaining ingredients; beat well. Drop from a spoon into hot fat. Fry like doughnuts. 1 cup warm oatmeal 1 cup flour 1/4 cup sugar
A drop batter fried in deep fat rather than baked in a tin — closer to a doughnut hole than to a modern muffin. The proportions as printed are unreliable, so treat the quantities as a starting point and judge by the batter.
- The measurements are scrambledThe dry list runs together and the fractions have come adrift: three teaspoons baking powder and a fraction of a teaspoon of salt are clear, but the amounts of rye meal, flour, milk and molasses cannot be read with confidence. If the stray fractions represent about three-quarters of a cup each of meal and flour, a full cup of molasses would be a great deal of sweetener for that quantity, and a smaller amount is probably intended. Note also that the last line -- warm oatmeal, flour and sugar -- belongs to the following recipe, not this one.
- Rye mealCoarsely ground whole rye, heavier and grittier than the light rye flour sold for bread. Medium or dark rye flour is the nearest supermarket substitute; stone-ground rye meal from a mill is closer still.
- Batter consistencyIt should mound on the spoon and release cleanly into the fat, thicker than pancake batter and looser than a dough. Rye absorbs liquid slowly, so let the batter stand five minutes before judging, and adjust with flour or milk rather than trusting the printed amounts.
- Fat temperatureThe book gives no temperature; "fry like doughnuts" simply directed the cook to her usual deep-fat practice. By modern standards 365-375F suits this kind of batter: below that it drinks fat and turns greasy, above it the molasses sugars scorch before the centre sets. A thermometer is worth more here than in most frying, because molasses browns early and the colour will lie to you.
- Size and timingDrop in tablespoon-sized portions, no more than five or six at a time so the fat does not drop below temperature. Three to four minutes total, turning once; a skewer through the centre should come out clean, as these set slowly in the middle.
- YieldAssuming a batter of about two cups, expect eighteen to twenty-four fritters. Serve hot, within minutes of draining, with butter or more molasses.
Rye meal was still a working pantry staple in New England kitchens when this book appeared, a holdover from the days when rye and Indian corn carried the household bread while wheat flour was the costlier grain. Molasses belongs to the same tradition: the Boston trade in West Indian molasses made it the everyday sweetener of brown bread, gingerbread and Indian pudding long after refined sugar became affordable. Fried batter drops like these were an economical way to put something hot and sweet on the table without heating an oven.