Ginger Ice Cream

This is a variation rather than a standalone formula: it assumes you already have one of the book's two base custards to hand. Read it as flavoring instructions for roughly a quart to a quart and a half of base.

• Philadelphia vs. FrenchPhiladelphia ice cream is uncooked — cream, sugar and vanilla, no eggs. French ice cream is a cooked egg-yolk custard, richer and denser. Either works here; the custard base carries ginger heat better, the Philadelphia base tastes cleaner.
• Preserved gingerThis means stem ginger in heavy syrup, sold in jars or crocks (the old Canton ginger). Crystallized ginger is not the same thing and brings no syrup; if you substitute it, chop it very fine and it will stay chewy rather than softening.
• The ginger syrupThree tablespoons is most likely the syrup drained from the jar rather than a separate purchase. If your jar is short of liquid, simmer 3 tablespoons sugar with 3 tablespoons water and a slice of fresh ginger, then cool it completely.
• Add the flavorings coldStir the ginger, lemon juice and syrup into the base after it has chilled thoroughly, not into warm custard. Lemon juice in a hot dairy mixture risks curdling, and warm base churns to a coarse texture.
• Chop finer than you thinkPieces larger than a small pea freeze into hard nuggets that are unpleasant to bite. Mince the ginger or pulse it briefly, and consider steeping a little of it in the base for depth.
• Freezing"Freeze" here means an ice-and-salt crank freezer, packed three parts ice to one part rock salt. In a modern machine, churn 20-25 minutes, then firm in the freezer for at least two hours before serving.
• Sugar balanceThe syrup adds sugar on top of an already sweetened base. If your base is on the sweet side, cut a tablespoon or two of its sugar to keep the mixture from freezing soft and slushy.
• YieldDepends on the quantity of base you start from; the recipe itself states none.