Lowney's Cook Book

The chocolate house's complete cookbook, c.1907 — from the value of food to the body through chafing-dish delicacies.

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STUFFING (Teaspoon finely chopped)

1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped pickles 1 teaspoon salt, few drops onion juice to cup milk or water Melt butter, add remaining ingredients, and stir lightly with a fork until heated through. If a dry stuffing is preferred, omit liquid.

Wash and wipe bluefish, stuff, and sew. Cut three gashes on either side of fish and insert a slice of salt pork in each gash (if desired fancy, pink the edges of the salt pork). Season with salt and pepper, brush with melted butter, and dredge with flour. Place on a greased fish sheet, or on two four-inch-wide pieces of cheese cloth. Set in dripping pan, surround with finely chopped pork; bake, allowing fifteen minutes to the pound; baste with salt pork fat. There should be sufficient in the pan; if not, try out an additional quantity of pork.

When the fish is browned on one side, it should be turned, basted and browned on the other. To avoid this turning, many prefer to skewer the fish in the shape of the letter S, and place as if swimming in the pan.

For the Modern Kitchen

This entry is a stuffing plus a full method for baked bluefish, and the ingredient list as printed is defective — the fat and the crumbs that make up the bulk of the stuffing have dropped out of the column. Read it as a technique rather than a formula.

A Little History

Bluefish baked and stuffed was an Atlantic seaboard staple in the decades around 1900 — the fish ran off the New England and Middle Atlantic coasts, sold cheaply, and appears constantly in Eastern cookbooks of the period. The larding with salt pork is the older English and colonial answer to any fish or lean meat going into a dry oven, and it survived here even though bluefish is oily enough not to need it. Lowney's Cook Book was published by the Walter M. Lowney Company, a Boston chocolate manufacturer, and like most house-branded cookbooks of the era it padded its chocolate recipes out with a full general cookery course; the fish chapter reflects Boston market habits and the Fannie Farmer school of precise domestic-science instruction, right down to the ornamental pinking of the pork.

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