Mackenzie's Ten Thousand Receipts

Ten thousand receipts from the great Victorian household compendium — cookery, brewing, dyeing, gilding, fireworks, medicine, farriery and the rest of the useful arts, in one volume.

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Brandies

Cognac Brandy.

Neutral spirits, 4 galls.; a gall. of honey dissolved in water, 2 pts.; Jamaica rum, 1 gall.; catechu, oz.; butyric ether, 1 oz. Mix.

Sarzerac Brandy.

Neutral spirits, 4 galls.; 3 pts. of water to dissolve honey, 4 pts.; rum, 3 qts.; porter, 3 pts.; infusion of almonds, a pt.; oil of wine, 1 oz.; sugar coloring, 4 oz.; cochineal tincture, 1 oz.; then add the alcoholic solution of starch, 3 pts., and mix. This starch solution is made by infusing 1 qt. of wheat or rice flour in 1½ galls. of equal parts of clean spirit and water for 24 hours.

Cherry Brandy.

Neutral spirits, 4 galls.; refined sugar, 5 lbs.; water, to dissolve, 1 gall.; catechu, 1 oz.; infusion of bitter almonds, 1/2 a pt. cloves, cassia, of each, 1/2 oz. ; these are to be well bruised before adding tartaric acid, 4 oz., dissolved in 1 pt. of water; honey, 1 qt., dissolved in 1 pt. of water; 4 drops of oil of wintergreen, dissolved in 1 oz. of acetic ether, then color with 1 pt. of the tincture of cochineal; burnt sugar, 1 oz. Peach Brandy.

Neutral spirits, 4 galls.; 3 pts. of honey, dissolved in 2 pts. of water; mix infusion of bitter almonds, 1 pt.; sulphuric acid, 80 drops; porter, 1 pt.; tincture of saffron, 1/2 a pt. and flavor with oil of pears, 1 oz., dissolved in 2 oz. of alcohol, and acetic ether, 1/2 oz.

Old Apple Brandy.

Neutral spirits, 4 galls.; decoction of tea, 1 pt.; alcoholic solution of starch, 3 qts., sulphuric acid, 1/2 oz.; this is flavored with the oil of apples, 1 oz., dissolved in alcohol, 2 oz.; color with 4 oz. of sugar coloring; valerianate of amylic oxide is the chemieal name for apple oil.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

These are not brandies at all but nineteenth-century rectifiers' formulas for imitating them: neutral spirit bulked out with sweetener, colour and flavouring chemicals. Several of the named ingredients are poisons, and none of them belong in a drink.

A Little History

This page is squarely trade rather than household. Rectifying — buying plain grain spirit and dressing it up as cognac, rum or whisky — was an entire industry before the food and drink adulteration laws of the later nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, and manuals of this kind were how the formulas travelled. Every element here has a job: honey and refined sugar for body, porter and burnt sugar and cochineal for colour, catechu for the drying tannin of a cask, the alcoholic starch solution for viscosity, and the ethers for the fruity top notes that ageing would otherwise supply. "Sarzerac" appears to be a rendering of Sazerac, a cognac brand well enough known through the New Orleans trade that imitating it was worth the effort. The presence of sulphuric acid and bitter almonds in a consumer product is a fair measure of how little regulation stood between the rectifier and the glass.

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