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Compotes, Etc., of Fruit: Petits
These may be served in a soufflé dish, or in small paper cases as Petits soufflés.
Soufflé au café is flavoured with coffee. au chocolat is flavoured with chocolate. au café vierge is flavoured with green coffee. au citron is flavoured with lemon. à la vanille is flavoured with vanilla. au marasquin is flavoured with maraschino.
ENTREMETS.
Souffle aux amandes is flavoured with pounded almonds. aux macarons is flavoured with macaroons. aux fleurs d'oranger is flavoured with candied orange flowers, or orange flower water. au gingembre is flavoured with preserved ginger. aux abricots is made with the addition of stewed apricots. Soufflés are also made with other fruit. Little fruit soufflés are sometimes called Petits zéphyrs aux fruits. à la crème is made with whipped cream instead of some of the whites of eggs. Baked in small paper cases, it is called Biscuits soufflés à la crème. au riz is a rice soufflé flavoured with lemon or vanilla. à la crème de riz is made with ground rice; au tapioca, with tapioca. au pain bis is made with brown breadcrumbs. aux confitures is made with preserve. à la Paysanne-a purée of apples, with a purée of chestnuts with cream over it, and meringue mixture on the top. à l'Espagnole-layers of sponge cake and preserve, soaked with wine and covered with meringue. glacé au marasquin is an iced soufflé flavoured with maraschino. Coffee or other flavouring may be substituted for maraschino, and the soufflé named accordingly. Iced in a mould, instead of a soufflé dish, it is called Mousse glacée, or in little cases, Biscuits glacés, au marasquin, etc.
Soufflé glacé aux fraises is an iced strawberry soufflé. glacé vanille et chocolat an iced vanilla soufflé, with chocolate on the top. glacé au curaçao an iced soufflé flavoured with curaçao and covered with a meringue preparation. Iced in small paper cases, this is called Biscuit mousseux glacé en caisse. glacé à la Victoria is a rich iced soufflé flavoured with liqueur and coloured green, with a macédoine of fruit in the centre. ( 201 )
Almost everything on this page is a soufflé in name only. The word describes the dish it is served in and the shape it holds, not an oven-risen batter, and roughly half the entries are frozen.
- Hot and iced share the nameSoufflé au café is baked and eaten at once. Soufflé glacé au marasquin is frozen, and holds its height because it is frozen, not because anything rose. The page runs the two kinds together with no warning, and a modern reader meeting soufflé glacé will put it in the oven.
- The vessel names the dishSet the same iced mixture in a mould and it is a Mousse glacée; in small paper cases, Biscuits glacés; in a soufflé dish, a soufflé glacé. The straight-sided dish with a paper collar round it existed so a cold mixture could stand above the rim and look baked.
- Flavourings that have goneCafé vierge is green, unroasted coffee. Fleurs d’oranger means candied orange blossom or orange flower water, still sold and rarely used. Pain bis is brown breadcrumbs, folded in as a flavour in their own right rather than as a filler.
- Three different thickenersAu riz, à la crème de riz and au tapioca are whole cooked rice, ground rice and tapioca. All three were pantry staples and all three set the mixture, but the textures are distinct, and ground rice in particular leaves a faint grittiness that was wanted. A modern cook reaching for cornflour gets something smoother than any of them.
- À la Paysanne is three preparationsApple purée, chestnut purée with cream poured over it, meringue on top. The name says peasant; the dish is three separate things made and layered, which takes a kitchen with somebody free to make all three.
Soufflés sit at the end of the fruit chapter, among the compotes, because they belonged to the same part of the meal: the entremets, the sweet dishes that followed the roast. The run of names shows how that course was managed. One mixture was made in quantity, divided, flavoured four or five ways and sent up in a variety of vessels, so the table saw several dishes where the kitchen had made one. The page even provides for the remainder of that logic, since the same preparation in little paper cases becomes a different dish with a different name.