Preface
PREFACE TO REVISED NINTH EDITION.
In this edition a considerable number of dishes have been added, and such alterations made as are demanded by the changes of fashion.
Dishes of a very elaborate character have, for the most part, been rejected. They are often merely (what a botanist would term) "sports" from well-established originals, differing from them, perhaps, only in some details of fantastic decoration, the fashions of which are very short-lived, and are quickly succeeded by some newer fancy.
With regard to decoration, it is suggested that very fanciful effects should be avoided. In a zeal for originality in this respect, the object of all decoration-viz. to render the dish attractiveseems occasionally to be forgotten, and a contrary effect is produced. Dishes are presented more fit to adorn a confectioner's window than to appear at a gentleman's table. viii PREFACE TO REVISED EDITION.
Compounds of preserves and ices have actually been made to represent, with painful accuracy, boiled legs of mutton, boars' heads, etc., etc It is a mistake, too, to give fantastic names to the dishes. A menu is intended to convey information, not to mislead or confuse; and few people care to bestow sufficient attention to the subject to enjoy a succession of "surprises."
Neither is a dish more generally appreciated for bearing an extravagant name-even when under such a name as Sastartées à la Malay are revealed the homely aspects of curried veal! One is reminded of the old saying, "Fine feathers do not make fine birds." au Names given to quenelles, creams, etc., often have reference to the fancy moulds in which they are dressed. For instance, Petites crèmes Chevalier are creams steamed or set in moulds made to represent little horseshoes. So petites cignes, petits chevaux, papillons, etc., refer to the moulds.
Even petites langues, petits jambonneaux, petits poulets, do not necessarily imply something made of tongue, ham, or chicken.
Very few such names are introduced in these pages. They are obviously only the passing fashion of the moment, and do more credit to the