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Sauces and Garnishes: White
Indienne-tomato sauce with curry paste, anchovy, etc. White Indian sauce is made of Béchamel sauce with curry powder.
Irlandaise-green Mayonnaise sauce with whipped cream and Tarragon vinegar, and vegetables cut in shreds.
Italienne – brown or white sauce with wine, chopped shallots, mushrooms, etc.
Jambon (Ham)-brown sauce with shred ham, butter, chopped shallots, etc.
Jolie fille (Fair maid's)-white chicken sauce with hard-boiled yolks of eggs, breadcrumbs, etc.
Kari-Curry sauce.
Lyonnaise-Tomato sauce with Portugal onions, etc.
Maître d'hôtel-Béchamel sauce with chopped parsley, etc. It is also made without stock.
Maltaise-white sauce with wine, chopped mushrooms and herbs, and shreds of orange peel. Marinade-vinegar and water with onions, carrots, etc.
Marrons (Chestnut) -chestnut flour with brown stock.
White chestnut sauce is made of the flour with broth and milk.
Matelote-brown stock with wine, young onions, mushrooms, etc. White Matelote sauce is a white sauce with oysters, mushrooms and herbs.
Mayonnaise a cold sauce of yolks of eggs, oil and vinegar.
Milanaise-grated Parmesan with cream sauce, or with brown sauce and mustard.
Mirabeau-brown sauce and Tarragon vinegar, with butter and chopped herbs.
Mirepoix-broth and wine with bacon, chopped vegetables, etc.
Moules (Mussel) - a white sauce with anchovy and mussels.
Mousquetaire-oil and Tarragon vinegar, with mustard, shallot, etc.
Mousseline-Mayonnaise sauce, whipped aspic and cream. Served with fish. It is also a sweet sauce of whipped eggs and liqueur.
Moutarde (Mustard) - melted-butter sauce with mustard, Chili vinegar, &c. For herrings.
Napier-a white fish sauce with mussels.
Naples a white Soubise sauce with cheese and chopped truffles.
Napolitaine-brown sauce with Port wine, Harvey sauce, ham, horseradish, currant jelly, etc.
Œufs (Egg)-melted-butter sauce with hard boiled eggs cut in pieces. Served with haddock and salt cod.
Orange-brown sauce with orange juice and shreds of orange peel.
Persil (Parsley)-melted-butter sauce with chopped parsley.
Périgueux-brown stock with wine and truffles.
Piquante a highly seasoned brown sauce with vinegar, shallots, etc.
Poivrade-a well seasoned brown sauce with vinegar, anchovy, ham, onions, etc. White Poivrade sauce is made of white sauce with vinegar, onions, etc.
Portugaise-butter, yolks of eggs and lemon juice.
Poulette-Allemande sauce with chopped parsley.
This is also called Blanquette.
Provençale-brown sauce and white wine with tomatoes, chopped capers, mushrooms, and shallots, etc.
Raifort (Horseradish) - cream, vinegar and horseradish. Ravigote-Maître d'hôtel sauce with Chili vinegar, Harvey and anchovy.
Ravigote verte-white sauce with pounded tarragon, chervil, etc. Réforme-brown sauce with wine, currant jelly and lemon juice.
Rémoulade - broth with mushrooms, chopped parsley, mustard, vinegar and garlic. Cold Rémoulade sauce is made of oil with chopped parsley, capers, garlic, etc.
Richelieu-a white game sauce with onions and wine.
Robert-brown stock with chopped onions, mustard and vinegar. Russe-a white sauce with horseradish, vinegar, yolks of eggs and cream.
Saint-Ménehould-milk, butter and flour, with chopped parsley, mushrooms, etc.
Salmis a brown game sauce with wine, oil, etc.
Sicilienne-a white sauce with lemon juice and shreds of lemon peel and tarragon.
Soubise-a purée of onions with cream.
Suédoise-Mayonnaise sauce with grated horseradish and cream. For a hot sauce white sauce with Chili vinegar is substituted for Mayonnaise.
Suprême a white chicken sauce with wine and cream.
Tartare-Mayonnaise sauce, or oil and vinegar, with mustard, etc.
Tomates (Tomato) -a purée of tomatoes with stock, etc.
Truffes (Truffle) - brown sauce with chopped truffles.
Vénitienne-white sauce with Tarragon vinegar, chopped tarragon and mushrooms.
Verte-green sauce made of wine and stock with pounded herbs, yolks of eggs, etc.
Viennoise-a white sauce with chopped ham and tarragon, etc.
Villeroi-white sauce flavoured with mushrooms, etc.
Vin de Madère-brown sauce with Madeira or other wine. It is also a sweet sauce of yolks of eggs, wine, etc.
Vin d'Oporto--Port wine with shallots, Harvey, etc. This sauce is used for wild ducks.
GARNISHES.
Chipolata-small round sausages, pieces of bacon, mushrooms, chestnuts, etc., with brown sauce.
Financière-cock's combs, livers, quenelles, pieces of sweetbread, etc., with brown sauce and wine.
Flamande-carrots, turnips, cabbages and other vegetables, with sausages.
Godard-pieces of sweetbread, quenelles and truffles, with brown sauce.
Italienne-minced sweetbreads, ham and mushrooms, with Financière sauce. Jardinière-vegetables cut in shapes, in a light glaze.
Macédoine-vegetables cut in shapes, with brown or white sauce.
Milanaise-strips of macaroni, ham, chicken, truffles, etc., in white sauce with grated Parmesan.
Montglas-minced chicken and truffles, with white or brown sauce.
Réforme-shred ham, carrots, truffles and whites of eggs.
Royale-minced chicken, sweetbreads, foie gras and mushrooms, with Béchamel sauce and lobster butter.
Q Toulouse-Financière garnish made with white instead of brown sauce. This is sometimes called a white Financière garnish.
Valenciennes-minced chicken, lobster, mushrooms and artichoke bottoms, with rice, and white sauce with curry powder.
An alphabetical list, running here from Indienne to Viennoise. Read down it and the architecture of the whole book appears: almost nothing is built from scratch, because every entry is a named addition to one of three or four bases kept standing in the kitchen.
- The basesBéchamel, a white chicken velouté, brown stock and melted butter do nearly all the work. Brown sauce here means espagnole, a stock reduced over most of a day. A kitchen with those four ready could turn out fifty of these sauces in minutes; a kitchen without them has to begin a day earlier.
- Melted-butter sauce is not melted butterIt is the English flour, butter and water sauce — a thin white sauce made without stock. It stands behind Moutarde, Œufs and Persil on this page, and reading it as warm butter will produce a broken mess in all three.
- Harvey and Chili vinegarTwo bottled condiments the page expects to find on a shelf. Harvey’s was an anchovy-based brown sauce and Worcestershire is its nearest surviving relative. Chili vinegar is no more than vinegar steeped with hot peppers, and is five minutes’ work.
- Names that misleadPortugaise here is butter, yolks and lemon juice, which is a hollandaise. Poulette is also called Blanquette. Jolie fille, the fair maid’s sauce, is chicken sauce with hard yolks and crumbs. The glossary exists because even then nobody could keep them straight.
- Shred means julienneShred ham, shreds of orange peel, vegetables cut in shreds. The word is being used for a fine knife cut, not for a texture, and every one of those sauces is meant to arrive with visible threads in it.
- Reduce further than feels rightNo quantity appears anywhere on the page, and the entries that read thinnest — Matelote, Mirepoix, Marinade — are the ones most likely to come out watery. Take each one to the point where it coats the back of a spoon and stop there.
The chapter looks purely French and is quietly half-British. Harvey sauce, Chili vinegar, Worcestershire’s relatives, mustard, curry powder, Indian pickles, essence of anchovy: a working Victorian grocery has been let into the saucier’s cupboard and is doing a great deal of the seasoning. The grand French construction is still there in the espagnole and the velouté, which cost a day’s labour and a quantity of meat, but the differentiating flavour in dozens of these entries comes out of a bottle bought by the pint. That is the real condition of a kitchen of this period in an English-speaking house: French method, French names, and a shelf of commercial condiments doing the actual distinguishing, with a glossary at the back so that the person writing the menu card could tell the results apart.